The next day we drive to ‘the lake of many colours’, which is also the site of the sacred ochre
pits. We stop at a farm gate and there is an incredible view of the mountains from which we
have just driven. Joey repeats the song he sang
to us at Bulla Miele, with the Noongar names of
the formations “kaya,kaya, Bulla Meile, Yonger
Mir, Mabrunup, Toolyulbrup”. The hill of eyes, the
kangaroo with the spear thrower on top, the place
of the ‘special’ men, and the beautiful woman
sleeping. I am struck my how much the shapes
of the mountains, appear to be what they are
named, particularly Toolbrunup. I can see the
woman clearly, the profile of her face, her arms at
her side and her rounded pregnant belly.
At the ochre pits, we are welcomed into the site
by Joey and we pass by Joey single file, while he
sings to his ancestors, asking them to give their
blessing for us to be there. We are asked to go
barefoot, so that we can connect to the land.
The ochre rocks here are astounding, the colours
so vibrant and varied, from deepest burnished
reds, mustard yellows to startling whites, and bright
oranges. It is like an artists pallete, the colours swirl
amongst each other, and I can see shapes, faces,
footprints and animals.
Joey takes us to the ‘powder room’, where the
Noongars prepared for ceremony. Remarkably
there is a rock with a concave bowl shape in it.
Water is poured into it and mixed with the deep
red ochre powder that crumbles from an earth
bank, nearby forming a rich paste. Joey then
paints our faces, and assigns us a spirit animal. I
am waitch, old man emu. We are each taught
the movements and we create a dance, our feet
stomping with the red dust puffing up round our
ankles. We are told to dance as if the earth came
up to our waists. My awkward self-conciousnessness falls away and I become captivated by a
sense of timelessness, where I feel free, playfull and
awake. We can’t help but to smile.
We go to a patch of flat salty sand and stand in
a circle as Joey uses his digging stick to draw his
homeland in a traditional mapping style, telling us
the story as he goes. The concentric rings around
the shapes remind me of gradients on ordnance
maps, and Joey explains that he sees them as
auric fields, and this makes sense.
Joey now tells us that he is going to do a painting
for us and I am honestly feeling less than enthusiastic about the prospect of spending the afternoon
literally watching paint dry but As Joey sets up he
warns us “now don’t wander off, or blink, because
you might miss it” and I watch in awe as Joey
paints a Carrolup Mission Art style of landscape
painting in under 10 minutes. One of the group
asks to buy it as soon as he is finished.
Next, we have our Healing. Joey is a Mubarrn
man, a ‘special’ man, and a unique healing
technique has been passed on to him through his
lineage.
What I experience next, was undoubtedly for me,
a life changing event. I have experienced numerous ‘alternative’ healings in my life, and I have
mostly come away, feeling that I was somehow
lacking in my sensitivities, as I just didn’t get it, and
I was never able to discern, or sense that anything
tangible had actually occurred. The explanation
given that the “happenings” occurs in the metaphysical, or etheric realms, was never very satisfactory, and you could say that I was also a little
cynical.
Contrary to what many healers say about raising
our vibrations, Joey tells us the opposite.
“Most of us, most of you, need to lower your vibrations. Lower it, closer to the earth. Reconnect, to
Boodjar, Mother Earth”
I have been asked not to share the specifics of
what occurred during the healing that took place
in the lake. But what I can share with you is that I
felt something very tangible occur. I felt my own
vibration. My scepticism dissolves and I weep,
without quite knowing why and I feel embraced
and nurtured and somehow ‘home’ in a way I
have not felt since I was a child.
We drive back to camp, and our group is strangely quiet, and I know that the others are also processing what they have just experienced.
That evening, Joey conducts a fire ceremony.
He calls the names of his ancestors as he pounds
swatches of leafy branches onto the fire. His family
totem is fire, and his family, masters of fire ceremony. As sparks and smoke fill the air, we are directed
to pass through the smoke and circle the fire and
spiral around. There is chanting and clap sticks
and the whole effect is disorientating and hypnotic and when we stop I feel as if I have just stepped
out of a dream. That night I sleep deeply.
The next day, after we have packed up camp,
and are driving back to Denmark, I can smell
the smoke on my clothes and there are traces of
ochre in my skin. I reflect upon the journey I have
just been on with Joey and Poornarti Aboriginal
Tours. The landscape I see from the bus window
is as beautiful as always, but now I feel that it’s
mysteries have been revealed to me and I have a
deeper understanding of the ancient symbios is the
Aboriginal people have with this land. In turn I feel
my own connection to the land is stronger and I
gratefully feel embodied in this country in a way I
have never felt before.
~ Tour Participant