find in a climbing guidebook. This
method helps users learn about
the grading systems and is simple
to implement. Using specific
grades, however, tends to keep
climbers from pushing out of their
comfort zone into harder climbs.
“I am only a 5.8 climber--I can’t
try the 5.10,” is heard too often
at climbing gyms. If using specific grades, it is best to make the
grades slightly soft compared to
outdoor climbs in the area. Setting is a product we offer to users,
and soft grades make people
happy. We need not be deceptive,
just nice. Sandbagged grades have
no place in an indoor climbing
gym.
circuits can work especially well
for bouldering.
Grade ranges: Instead of using
specific grades, each climb is
assigned a rating that corresponds to a range of grades. For
example, a gym could use Level 1
to Level 5, with each level spanning two to three grades. Level 2
climbs could span 5.8-5.10b, for
example. This encourages people
to try routes that challenge their
abilities and can build confidence
if a climber is unsuccessful in finishing a route. Using grade ranges
can help change a climbing culture that is grade driven, allowing
climbers to develop a full range of
movement techniques rather than
just trying the next hardest thing.
Aesthetics
Circuits: Setting circuits is
common in Europe and has made
its way into U.S. gyms. Different
route colors correspond to the
difficulty. Pink routes are easy,
blue intermediate, black hard, red
really hard, for example. Circuits
leave the grades out completely.
In addition, each circuit color has
a variety of route styles (such as
technical, powerful, committing,
and sustained). Climbing all the
routes in one circuit will make
a climber well rounded. Setting
Climbing grades are subjective, and they vary from area to
area and gym to gym. What is
important is to have consistency
of grading within your facility. To
achieve this, every reset should
have a reference route—a route
that all other climbs’ grades are
compared to. The grade of the
reference route needs to be in
the mid-range. Simply use the
grade at the peak of your grade
distribution bell curve. All setters
should climb the reference route
and come to a consensus about
the grade.
Visual aesthetics and movement
aesthetics affect a climber’s
experience, consciously and
subconsciously. Studies have
found that food that looks good
tastes better than the same food
presented poorly. It is no different with the aesthetics of
route-setting. Here are a few suggestions for improving your gym’s
aesthetics.
1. Set by hold color only. This
may not be a possibility for
all climbing facilities, but if
you have the hold selection,
eliminating tape will make
the entire wall more visually
appealing. A