OpenRoad Driver Volume 13 Issue 1 - Page 27

Volume 13 Issue 1 » 27 LAMB & GUINNESS SUET CRUST PIE T H E FAT B A D G E R Whoever thought pie was American has been watching too much TV. Pies, particularly meat pies, are the ultimate British comfort food that traces back to medieval England called “pyes.” I could go further and say that the Brits adapted pies from the Greeks and Romans, but it’s the Brits who are still notoriously known for them. They love their pies so much they even dedicate a week to them called “British Pie Week.” British-born-and-raised chef and owner Neil Taylor opened The Fat Badger, a British gastropub, in 2014. It’s one of the few gastropubs doing Brit food justice. It offers some British classics, and some British dishes with westcoast influences. The menu changes daily, but the pie is usually there, and the filling changes frequently. Other mainstays include the Scotch egg - which is fantastic - and mini Yorkshire puddings. It’s hard to find a restaurant in the city that serves a respectable non-frozen and non-pre-made meat pie with a homemade crust, but here it is. It takes 40 minutes for the pie, and Taylor isn’t taking any shortcuts. The thicker pastry, as it should be for British pies, is made in-house and traditionally with beef fat, known as suet. It allows for a savoury and crunchy crust with a softer underside ideal for steamed or baked pies. The pie comes piping hot on a bed of delicious mashed potatoes that, together with the crust, is great to just soak up all the rich gravy. 1616 Alberni Street Vancouver, BC, V6G 2V5 (604) 336-5577 fatbadger.ca