LORI
RYERSON
LAST STOP: NEWFOUNDLAND
When I was a teenager, my cousin, an expert ham radio But Newfoundland is becoming a victim of its own success,
operator, was part of an expedition to set up the first radio being loved to death by hordes of tourists in its short summer
rebroadcaster on Baffin Island. The photos of the icebergs season. The success of the Broadway show “Come from
he brought back all had weird greenish-blue centres in the Away” (the story of how, during the initial days of 9/11, the
middle of all the icebergs, and I commented how unfortunate citizens of Gander, NL helped house and feed about 7,000
that his camera wasn’t working properly. He explained that redirected airplane passengers) has served to shine even
those lights really did exist from the centre of the ‘berg; not more of a spotlight on this ruggedly beautiful province.
only that, but there was the SOUND of an iceberg, crackling
in the water. I was captivated by the idea, and knew then that We deliberately targeted a mid-May trip to get out there in
someday I’d have to find me some ice. time for the iceberg migration. Due to being at the very edge
of the Atlantic (next stop: Ireland!), Newfoundland is subject
About a dozen years ago, I learned about an “art community” to some extreme weather, and “the season” doesn’t really
in a place called Tilting, on the tiny island of Fogo, about 45 start until after June. (Good we weren’t there this year; there
minutes off the cost of Newfoundland. Every September, a were still snow events happening up to mid-June this year!)
friend of mine came back from there with an armload of art,
filled with simplicity and joy. I knew I had to find a way to get Starting our trip in the capital city of St. John’s, NL, with its
to Tilting. traditional multi-coloured row houses, we went on our first
iceberg hunt about an hour south to Bay Bulls and Renews
Icebergs and Fogo Island came together with a trip to Bay. Last year was a banner year for ‘bergs, and we couldn’t
Newfoundland, the most easterly province in Canada. Even have asked for better specimens. The ice breaks off the glacial
more of a bonus was travelling with my oldest son, who is cap in Greenland and floats down through what’s termed
now a cinematographer. Which meant all photography, all “Iceberg Alley” by Twilliingate, NL. Given the size of those
the time, and no need to keep apologizing for monopolizing a things, they move surprisingly quickly, so you may follow the
holiday!!! And we’re still talking, so it went well! “Iceberg Finder” reports that the Navy puts out, but if your
timing is off, it’s a bit like storm chasing!
There has always been a tendency to put off travelling in
our home country, since we know it will “always be there”.
Cape Spear, at the edge of Canada
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