Oct/Nov 2015 Aug/Sept 2015 | Page 25

Winnipeg is a multicultural paragon , and the city ' s ever-shifting demographics are indicated by a wealth of fantastic places to eat with cuisines that span the globe .
Ciao ! reviews always aim to broaden our readers ' repetoire of the city ' s good eats . This issue ventures past chef-driven hotspots to neighbourhoods and suburbs decidedly off the trendy path . In these no-fuss and no-frills environments , recipes that have migrated to Winnipeg with families merge tradition and new ingredients , once again revealing how thinking global and acting local enriches the culinary landscape .
GOHE Neighbourhood . ... West End Address . .... 533 Sargent Ave Phone . ...... 204-414-1529 Entrées . ..........$ 12- $ 15
The mural on the outside of Gohe restaurant – one of the West End ’ s many al fresco artworks – declares Ethiopia the land of “ 13 months of sunshine ”. Inside , when served with a table-spanning platter of stews and curries , it is easy to agree . Vibrant , acidic , tangy , and hot , the Ethiopian specialties at Gohe provide surpassingly sunny flavour .
The sparse dining room gains the cozy vibe of a neighbourhood haunt in the evening , when the space fills with a diverse cross-section of diners gathering to chatter while scooping saucy entrées into torn-off shreds of injera . This spongy sourdough bread traditionally acts as both cutlery and plate , sopping up the main dishes ’ flavourful oils and juices .
Clarified , spice-infused butter and chile-laced berberé are the basis for stews like doro wat , a rich , longsimmered dish packed with morsels of tender chicken and topped with a ciao ! reviews
hard boiled egg . Tibs , tender cubes of meat sautéed with vegetables , hot peppers , and spices are available with lamb , chicken , or beef . The fiery mix gets an acidic hit from bits of tomato peppered throughout , while a hint of rosemary lingers , adding an herbal , fragrant note . A crisp salad slick with vinaigrette arrives with the dish , a refreshing complement .
Vegetarians are spoiled for choice as well . Spice-laden shiro wat , made from ground chickpeas , and kik alicha , a vibrant yellow split pea stew , are filling and flavourful highlights .
Finish the meal with a diminuative but powerful cup of coffee . For those looking to put a little hair on their chest , the dark , rich brew is the perfect jolt to follow an African feast .
Gohe is open Tue-Sun 1 pm-9:30 pm , closed Monday .
LA FIESTA CAFECITO Neighbourhood .....
St Vital Address . .... 730 St Anne ' s Rd Phone . ...... 204-257-7108 Entrées . ..........$ 15- $ 20
Like many hidden gems in this restaurant city , La Fiesta Cafecito conceals its charm behind a nondescript strip mall front . In reality only a short jaunt down St Anne ’ s road is required to visit this outpost of El Salvador , but the warm-climate hospitality of this family-owned spot transports diners way south of the border .
Meals are comforting and filling , rich flavours balanced with flourishes of lemon , fresh corn , and sparing spiciness as bright as the yellow and green walls popping with vividly coloured artwork . Salvadoran signatures are impeccably executed , like papusas , pan fried until smoky and perfectly charred . Spicy jalapeño filling oozes gooey cheese . Flaky cassava ( or yuca ) is served fried or steamed under a pile of chicharrones – salty , crispyfried shreds of pork – while tamales ' dessert-like sweetness arrives twisted in a corn husk .
Mexican influence can be spied in cheesy quesadillas and the massive burrito poderoso ( that ’ s ‘ powerful burrito ’), but enchiladas here are far from Tex-Mex . Fried masa-dough rounds topped with savoury black bean purée , tomato-sauced beef , guacamole , or coleslaw , and scattered with cheese , give addictive crunch .
Offerings of fresh juice and housemade soup change daily , though if the server says the words “ chipotle chicken ”, don ’ t hesitate – rich in the way only long-simmered broth can be , the slurp-able soup is laden with shreds of chicken , rice , and bright rounds of green onion . Any juice is a safe bet , though rice-based horchata is a top notch refresher , cool and creamy with a tinge of cinnamon .
The menu calls for diner interaction , offering individual and share-able combination plates that encourage taste-testing . It only seems right at a location that fits the very definition of ‘ family style ’.
La Fiesta Cafecito is open Tue-Thu 4:30-9 pm , Fri-Sat 4:30-10 pm , closed Sun & Mon .
FUSIAN EXPERIENCE Neighbourhood . . Academy Rd Address . .... 612 Academy Rd Phone . ...... 204-691-9334 Entrées . ......... $ 10- $ 40
Fusian Experience crushes the influx of sushi joints popping up in the city . Artful dishes are executed with quality and creativity by seasoned pros .
There ' s no flashy exterior , but the tiny restaurant on Academy Road is dressed in chic décor . An inventive selection of fanciful creations delivers seafood stunners and raw marvels .
ciao ! / aug / sep / two thousand fifteen 23