Oct/Nov 2015 Apr/May 2015 | Page 35

ERA BISTRO Neighbourhood ..... The Forks Address .... 85 Israel Asper Way Phone ......... 204‐289‐2190 Entrées ............ $ 19- $ 33
Located in the newly opened Canadian Museum for Human Rights , Era Bistro offers a space to commune and connect . The restaurant reflects the beauty of the space , while taking up the museum ’ s mandate with a focus on sustainability , equality , and locality .
Communal tables , friendly servers , and a spotless open kitchen reinforce an intimate atmosphere for which the ‘ bistro ’ moniker is apt . The swank décor doesn ’ t sacrifice warmth for style , with a palate of muted shades that mirror the museum ’ s naturallyinspired design and bold elements , like a centerpiece of tangled metal rings that hangs above the room .
Imaginative and beautifully plated dishes match the sleek setting . Executive chef Barry Saunders , as he has at The Current for the past 10 years , proudly touts local , vegetarian and gluten free fare , as well as in-vogue ingredients . Young beets ( both red and golden ) tossed in a divinely creamy red wine dressing , scattered with pine nuts , and piled high with fresh microgreens are a reminder of why this Manitoba garden staple has gained its fashionable status . The popular penchant for updating the French fry makes its way onto the menu as well , but Era ’ s version , made with carrots ( not yams ) are sweet , beer-battered slices , served alongside a kicky buttermilk jalapeño dip .
Manitoba delicacies are in no short supply on the shareable small plates menu . Warm pickerel cheeks coated in crispy panko breading pair with tart lemony remoulade . Small morsels of updated bannock , flecked with fresh ciao ! reviews
herbs , arrive ready to be slathered with honey-drizzled ricotta , spicy tomato tapenade , or chickpea hummus . Wonton tourtiere and poutine topped with beef short ribs reveal harmonious multiculturalism indicative of the diversity that makes up our city .
Entrées are artfully composed from a palette of classic pairings and under-used ingredients . Salmon shares the plate with a stack of crisp sautéed fennel , the oft-overlooked , licorice fragrant vegetable a complement to the lightly flaky fish and its bright , nutty herb crust .
Manitoba lamb is sliced into tender pink coins and piled on sautéed mushrooms drizzled with a rosemary gastrique that perks the tongue with a soy sauce tinge of salinity . Other regional proteins like arctic char and venison make up the menu , reinforcing their locality with pairings like sour cherries , beets , and golden caviar .
Vegetable-centric offerings show Saunders is able to play just as nice with meatless meals , like the root vegetable Wellington . Slices of carrot , turnip , and parsnip tucked under a flaky crust lend the traditional pie an earthy , bittersweet crunch . Smoky red pepper ragout , crispy fried cubes of polenta and a stack of juicy oyster mushrooms accompany the dish .
You ’ ll want to linger , and the dessert selection makes it easy . Chocoholic heaven , the Brooklyn blackout layers a hearty helping of chocolate cake with rich frozen chocolate mousse and a swipe of tart raspberry coulis .
Glasses of wine and after dinner coffee are guilt free indulgences , as all offerings are fair trade . Era ' s regional ingredient-packed menu and nods to ecological and social sustainability not only come from its location , but its own , somewhat lofty , personality : a belief that food has power to create hope and change .
Era Bistro is open for lunch Tue- Sun 11 am – 4:30 pm , for dinner Wed-Sat 5 pm-10 pm .
CIBO WATERFRONT CAFÉ Neighbourhood ... The Exchange Address ..... 339 Waterfront Dr Phone ......... 204‐594‐0339 Entrées ............ $ 12- $ 35
Italian cuisine is engrained in the food culture of Winnipeg . Pastas , pizzas , and panini appear on many contemporary menus to cater to masses and youngsters . This broad appeal is what makes well-executed Italian fare so revelatory : the notion that simple , well worn classics can become fresh and new through creative interpretation .
Cibo was added to the city ’ s mix of stylish table settings when it assumed its place in the restored Red River Pump House last summer . This charming exposed brick space with its soaring ceiling , hardwood floors , and enormous windows , got its start in the 1950s as a water cooling station for the steam plant across the street . Today , the space is far from industrial , with a craft-focused kitchen spinning modern hybrids of Mediterranean flavours and Canadian favourites .
Chef / Operator Stephen Pawulski , a grad of the Red River College Culinary Arts program , builds on a foundation of quality ingredients , with culinary components culled from local sources ( artisanal breads supplied by Stella ’ s bakery ) to faraway farms in Italy . Atlantic salmon pairs with French lentils , served skin side up to showcase a crispy pan sear and garnished with crunchy fried leeks . Small plates include arancini , perfect orbs of risotto , herbs , and baby bocconcino cheese rolled in breadcrumbs and fried golden brown .
While Cibo takes a modern angle on Mediterranean cuisine , interpretations are never over-wrought ,
ciao ! / apr / may / two thousand fifteen 33