Mélange Travel & Lifestyle Magazine July 2018 | Page 656
Whaling in Bequia
St. Vincent & The Grenadines (Bequia) is a
member of the IWC and adheres strictly to its
regulations which allow the islands to preserve
this almost 200-year old tradition
E
xpectant faces dot the undulating
coastline: people perched on a cliffside
or mingling on a beach in one single
line of anticipation, laughing, chatting,
or simply waiting. Gentle breezes meander all
about, mixing with the soft breath of rustling
waves and the embracing warmth of the sun’s
rays. Suddenly, cheers erupt as the crowds
ripple forward in excitement: it’s getting
closer! We can almost see it! Finally, it appears:
the tiny bobbing boat trailed by its large,
looming prize: the dark, mammoth body
of a freshly-harpooned humpback whale.
Everyone flocks down to the “whaling station”
to witness the arrival; elsewhere, workers
vacate their desks, children run from the
schoolyard and pots are left on the stove so
all can partake in this momentous community
event.
This scene is affectionately recounted by
Guinell Ollivierre-Hazell, my co-worker-turned-
photographer/tour guide in Bequia, an 11km2
piece of paradise and one of St. Vincent’s
Grenadine islands. Having driven minutes
from the airport down to the local fishing
dock, we are now seated outside a small food
stall. Just across the way the Perseverance
and other fishing boats silently await their
next expedition. Meanwhile, Guinell’s eyes
light up as she describes this tradition so
dear to her people. For Bequarians, whaling
is more than just a highly anticipated season;
it’s a part of history woven into every fiber
of present-day life. No wonder fishermen
returning from a whale catch meet throngs of
cheering onlookers riled up in carnivalesque
excitement.
It all starts with the “whale watchers”, who,
upon observing certain conditions on the
water, take up viewing posts on Bequia’s
south coast or on Isle-a-Quatre, a small
uninhabited island just south of Bequia. When
the watchers sight a whale, the fishermen
sail out to the point, and, using original
methods, harpoon and secure the creature
to the boat. This is dangerous business, as a
frightened whale could haul the boat up to 20
miles offshore and into a situation attracting
Submitted by Shana Jones.
Read her blog at www.RoamingAviatrix.com
furiously salivating sharks. Upon its arrival on
the crowded shores, a group of men assists
the fishermen in beaching the whale and
harvesting its meat and blubber.
“So...about the whale meat, blubber, etc?”, I
ask Andrew, a soft-spoken, bronzed fisherman.
The seasoned whaler has joined us at the
picnic table outside the stall and is quietly
eager to share his knowledge. Shielding his
eyes from the brilliant sunlight, he tells me
that Bequarians love their whale meat! Beef-
like in texture and not naturally salty, it can
be corned (cut up and dried) or cooked in its
own oil and preserved for up to two years.
Burning the blubber produces the oil, which
locals consume as an Omega-6-rich wellness
tonic. Most interesting, however, is how they
turn the heavy, off-white bones into indoor
and outdoor decorative pieces; there is even
a shop called The Whale Bone that features a
whale bone counter and stools!
Behind all the excitement, meat, and bone
ornaments, however, lie the regulations
that help to preserve this almost 200-year
tradition. These regulations originate with the
International Whaling Commission (IWC), a
global body that seeks to control the world’s
whale population and promote the growth of
its industry. For St. Vincent (Bequia), an IWC
member, this means that a maximum of 4
whales, humpback only, may be caught
each year. Fishermen may only hunt whales
in their waters and the meat and other by-
products must be consumed in Bequia. Finally,
and most important for the preservation of
local heritage, the whales must be harpooned
using traditional methods.
Whale bone ornament at the entrance of a local seaside bar.
Photo credit: Guinell Ollivierre-Hazell
Andrew, an experienced whaler, shows me harpooning
equipment aboard the Perseverance
Photo credit: Shana Jones
Only in extreme circumstances (ie. with a
particularly fretful whale) may fishermen use
modern alternatives.
Today’s glimpse into Bequia’s culture and
traditions has been truly interesting for me.
As my gaze shifts towards a giant jaw bone
pointing at the cloudless sky, my mind runs
over the scene again. I think, How cool it is
to witness man interacting with resources in
his natural environment in ways passed down
through the generations! How incredible it is
to form part of this life cycle, taking graciously
from Mother Earth and then returning her gifts
in another form!
It affirms for me that in Bequia, as anywhere
else, we must treasure and be good stewards
of nature’s gifts around us. With deference
to the humpback whales of Bequia, I offer
humble thanks.
DID YOU KNOW . . .
Elsewhere in the world, whale stool and vomit are harvested to make perfume and cologne!