Mélange Travel & Lifestyle Magazine April 2018 | Page 639

Fort Hamilton blubber is boiled to extract a dark, nutrient-rich oil, also popular among locals. A few more of Toko’s witty barbs and we start out again, climbing and descending sunny hillsides and stopping for beautiful coastal views. Brilliant sunlight everywhere contrasts the stark blue of sky and sea with the pale green countryside; this is especially so atop Fort Hamilton, a former cannon battery and lookout. Between poses on the 4 cannon replicas, our trusty cameras embrace views of vibrantly colourful Port Elizabeth and its harbour dotted with yachts in anticipation of the Bequia Easter Regatta. We descend the Fort and head northeast on a narrow, breezy stretch of road checkered with sunlight and leafy shadows to the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary on the east coast. Here, islander Orton King dedicates his time to preserving Bequia’s Hawksbill turtle population. Every day he pumps over 10,000 gallons of seawater to indoor tubs that keep turtles of various ages until they are released on local beaches at 5-6 years old. The babies resemble little black fidgety pebbles floundering through the water, so small they can fit in the palm of my hand. The older, more adept turtles glide gracefully through the water, leaving only a silent wake behind. View of Port Elizabeth from Fort Hamilton