Travel Story: leigh wilkins - australia
Water, Water Everywhere …
Mitchell’s initial mandate had been to travel west following the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee Rivers to prove that they flowed into the Murray River which in turn linked with the Darling forming Australia’s largest river system and a great source of fresh water for the south-east of the continent. Following the Lachlan, Mitchell described it as little more than a series of waterholes, hardly fitting of the title “river”. As I picked it up in the central west of New South Wales I found Mitchell’s description couldn’t be any further from what I was seeing and convinced myself that I’d found myself on the banks of another river, forcing an unwanted look at the GPS to confirm my position. I discovered the river was flowing, so much so that in some areas it had breached its banks and flooded the land. The Murrumbidgee, in the same area, had to become swollen and full of life, what was once parched dried land was now a vast shallow lake. I looked at my maps and wondered how far the water spread.
Long dusty tracks continued through the outback, the sun beating down hiding the truth of what lay ahead. Numerous times I was forced to backtrack as the dirt roads soon turned to sticky mud and then water as far as the eye could see. The water was shallow and I knew I could traverse it but needing to resort to the GPS to follow a path was out of the question, it didn’t happen 180 years ago, it wouldn’t happen now. I just needed to find another way.
Water crossings became unavoidable in some areas. It added to the adventure, the fun, the sense of exploration. Being bogged became the norm. Falling off, in the shallowest of water, the exception. It became a point of great humour to a fellow rider and friend who joined me later during my ride of discovery. The simple fact is, water, concrete and plant life simply don’t mix, I discovered all too late as I lay in cold, flowing water with the GSA on top of me.
I thought how wonderful it would’ve been for Mitchell to see this land in its present state, yet again he probably would’ve been horrified by what his discoveries had forced upon the land and the indigenous people. Melancholy settled over me as I followed a line of trees I believed to be the continuation of the Lachlan and soon reached the intersection with the Murrumbidgee. Balranald, yes, a good place to camp and hopefully where Mitchell’s team had. No! It was awash with milky, brown water and debris. I took the easy option and settled for a motel, I hadn’t bathed in almost a week and was dying for a cold beer.