Motorcycle Explorer Jan 2017 Issue 15 | Page 38

Travel Story: Egle Gerulaityte - cuba ‘Where are my bike riders?!!’, - in the dead of the night, a loud bellow makes everybody jump out of their skin. Captain Ludwig is rousing the riders asleep on the deck of the creaking Stahlratte: it’s time to unload the bikes and sneak them through the Cuban customs. I’d always wanted to explore Cuba, so when President Obama announced he was going to visit the island I felt it was now or never: I had to go ride around Cuba before the countless hordes of holidaying gringos showed up and turned it into a touristy Disneyland. So in early March 2016, I boarded the Stahlratte in Isla Mujeres, Mexico along with 6 other motorcyclists. They were from Switzerland, England, Poland, Canada, the USA, and Germany: a mixed bunch, but all with the same thought as me. Filled with anticipation and guided by the expert efforts of the Captain, we spent the next eight hours filling forms and dealing with an amount of paperwork that would put border officials in Central America to shame. Everything was done by hand, and the customs officers were taking their time checking and double – checking if everything is in order. But at the end of a long, hot day I finally had an import sticker on my windshield, a Cuban license plate attached to my bike, and a Cuban driving license safely in my wallet. I’d better keep an eye on it, too: if any of these are not returned upon departure, there are fines of $80 and more per missing item. I spent one more night on the Stahlratte sitting at the dockside in Cienfuegos and set out to Havana the next morning.