Motorcycle Explorer Issue 17 - Page 34

Travel Story: leigh wilkins - australia

Coward Springs, the next stop, around 50km further down the track, was the first sign that we were hitting ‘civilisation’. Here were quite a few families, clamouring from their ‘trucks’ to have a look at the restored station master’s cottage as well as the ‘natural’ springs. They’ve done a great job restoring the area although it felt touristy, insincere, a stage set. The springs themselves looked like a small swimming pool, even to the point where I swear there was a pump and a distinct smell of chlorine.

Leaving Coward Springs became the most challenging of the whole Oodnadatta Track. The road very wide but now obviously well used. Several corners had been covered with a deep layer of stones, railway ballast. It was damn near impossible to get through cleanly, we resorted to paddling most of the way, as many four-wheel drives and even a truck showered us with fist sized stones. It did take us a while to get through this and once on the other side the track was very hit and miss, some places were great while others treacherous.