Motorcycle Explorer December 2014 Issue 3 | Page 12

T he border post appeared about ten miles from Silopi. The line of trucks was endless. That post was the only way of land communication with the West. The Iranian border is not suitable for entering Western goods due to the embargo, and the Syrian border means to cross through the Sunni hornet's nest. My appearance caused astonishment and joy within the Secret Service members. What in the hell was I doing there? From where did I come from? How much costs my bike? Was I a follower of Real Madrid or Barcelona? T o enter the bike was hard. Kurdistan tries to be a modern state, but repeats the old bureaucratic schemes of that region. Slow and incomprehensible procedures. A mechanic identified the brand, model, number of cylinders, chassis, and license plate of my bike. He handed me a document, but when I showed it to leave Kurdistan, it turned out to be insufficient. I never came to understand what was missing or unnecessary in that document. While waiting, I called Jan, the Christian who was supposed to help me out. He told me he would come to pick me up, but time passed and hedid not appear. So, I decided to go to the town of Zakho, which was just ten kilometres away. I tried to find a hotel and as I walked slightly disoriented a young man approached me. His English was full of grammatical errors. He was Jan. He had recognized me at first glance. He invited me to stay at his house. He got as a passenger on my bike and as we started to penetrate in the dark alleys of suburban neighborhoods , it fired in my head the precaution chip that often can result in paranoia. THE BORDER!