SOUTH TOWARDS GOA
J
aipur south to Bundi is a 220 kilometre doddle across flat farmland on a good road. Indian
Bundi is an industrial city. Tourist Bundi is a thin strip of 17th and 18th century havelis
converted into hotels and guest houses with roof top restaurants. For tourists the attractions are
the 13th century fort and decaying palace. Both Footprint and Lonely Planet recommend Lake
View Paying Guest House. The lake in question is a square tank half full with green scum.
A kindly Austrian Buddhist hikes my camel bag up three flights of steep stone stairs and across
the flat roof to my 400 Rupee room. I follow slowly with backpack and helmet and collapse on a
king-size bed. Survive the climb and the room is heaven, sofa, easy chair and upholstered lolling
space beneath arched windows that filter sunlight through stained glass. Murals of painted
flowers and garden greenery surround the windows. The ceiling border is gold and blue. A mural
of a smiling young woman livens the wall beside the bathroom door. So the bathroom is basic -
big deal.
I share a stone bench on the terrace with the Austrian Buddhist and gaze with joy across the roof
tops at the palace cascading down the hillside. Ancient walls glow in the misty evening
sunlight – so does the herbal cigarette the Buddhist offers. I decline politely and wonder that a
Buddhist dope smoker should earn his bread as a technical engineer at a Swiss nuclear power
station. Easy there, don't panic but do remember to say your prayers.
The roof is a way station for monkeys on their evening trek home to the fort. One picks up a torn
black T shirt from the parapet and shakes it aloft. The shirt envelops his head. Blinded, he
chatters with fear and tears at the cotton. The shirt catches on a water pipe and drags loose. Off
he scampers. I go in search of a shave and dinner.
-x-
Out of bed at 7 a.m. A lovely room and sad that I must leave so early. The Buddhist nuclear
engineer is meditating. Eyes closed, he sits facing