The word pyjama comes from the Hindi word pai jama which
meaning leg clothing as initially they consisted of just the
pants worn underneath a knee length tunic in India,
Pakistan, Bangladesh and Iran. Their popularity rose in the
1870’s after international travellers of repute brought them
back and they became a huge status symbol that conveyed
all things exotic. The Aesthetic’s, such as Wilde and Beardsley,
were all under the item con dressing gown or smoking jacket
-preferably monogrammed- while a Chinese silk PJ marked
the true aficionado. Still, their universal acceptance was
delayed by the ever-popular nightshirt a la Scrooge that was
apparently warmer but, just as soon as central heating
appeared in the 1920’s, men took to the item en masse. In
those days one didn’t lounge about in one’s suit or shirt or tie
after work, it was hang them up and get comfy time and the
jim jam was the solution. Consequently, in 1930 when the
Hays or the Motion Picture Production Code was
implemented across all US movies the pyjama solved all the
problems that said moral code posed when depicting a man
in his boudoir. As such, the item boomed- some in Cossack
style buttoned at the neck, while others were in a Grenadier
or Musketeer fashion prompting the Men’s Wear Magazine to
ask on July 25th 1935.”Will little timid fellows with bald
heads buy these sleeping garments or will they be purchased
by great brawny athletic types?’ The jury is still out but,
nevertheless, in the thirties the likes of Noel Coward, Cole
Porter, Ronald Coleman and George Sanders claimed the
item as their own until the image of the louche bedchamber
buccaneer replete in initialled silk pyjama, dressing gown
and slipper with cigarette holder was engrained in our
consciousness. The pyjama thus became most fashionable.
Consequently, the classic piped pyjama (as sported and
popularised by the likes of James Stewart, Cary Grant and
John Lennon) became standard mufti for every boy and man
in the UK and US up until the advent of sportswear. Of
course, the pyjama answered all the problems. Back then it
was not done for a chap to swan about in his singlet and boxers
as, apart from being indecorous, it was also too bloomin’ cold
while today’s fashion for Tee shirt sweat pants is just not good
enough. All they articulate is,‘ I am a slob’ whereas a pyjama
says, ‘ I care how I dress all the time.’ I, for one, know that my
postman is impressed while the lady who came political
canvassing just the other week was head over heels with
admiration.
Of course, designers such as Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci and
Louis Vuitton have, of late, been up to par with this entirely
sensible notion of not looking like someone from Coronation
Street while at home and indulged us with variations on the
theme while Paul Smith’s signature striped ensemble is
stylish enough to wear out doors.
However the finest PJ on the market is available from
Hackett that, constructed from the freshest softest 190
cotton poplin and, available in a cool Oxford blue stripe,
boasts the requisite piping, an elasticated waist and a top
pocket and, as such, is the chickens elbows that, uncommonly
comfortable, is hard to step out of. I sport mine as soon as I
get in and then wear them to bed and, if home bound mooch
about in them all day. They are an unparalleled joy.
A thoroughly sensible item, a few words of warning however,
once you step into the pyjama game you will not want to take
them off and, if you do, the good lady of the house is oft to
purloin the top, wear it sans bottoms and never give it back
… but then again worse things have happened at sea.
www.hackett.com