Photographer Theodore Kaye
Renowned jewellery artist and innovator, Wallace Chan groundbreaking innovation –
a super-strength porcelain that is five times harder than steel
The Wonderful Jewellery of
Wallace Chan
At 17, Wallace Chan founded his gemstone carving workshop in 1974. In 1987, he invented the renowned illusionary carving technique “Wallace Cut”.
After 8 years of research, he mastered titanium to create ethereal jewelry pieces then released the technology into the public domain. His innovation introduced titanium into the world of high jewelry to shape a new direction for modern jewelry making.
He is the first Asian jewelry artist to exhibit at TEFAF, London Masterpiece, and Biennale des Antiquaires. He was invited to deliver talks at Harvard University, Central Saint Martins, the V&A Museum, and the Cooper Hewitt Museum. Recognized as a top jewelry artist and innovator, he is featured extensively in international media. His one-of-a-kind creations are philosophical and carry messages of the past to become the heritage of the future.
WALLACE CUT
Invented in 1987, it is a carving technique which creates an illusion in transparent materials by combining facetting and intaglio into 3-dimension engraving.
PATENTED JADE TECHNIQUE
The jade refining and brightening technique sends light racing and pulsating along jade surfaces, enabling the green refractions to magnify each other and sharpen the colors. This technique received a patent of invention in 2002.
TITANIUM MASTERY
After 8 years of research, Wallace Chan discovered the way to tame titanium in 2007. The lightweight metal is hard and strong. Its natural colors compliment colored gemstones, and its bio-friendly nature embraces the human body. These distinctive characteristics of titanium expand the possibilities for jewelry-making.
GEMSTONE SETTING TECHNIQUE
The “diamond claw setting method” allows diamonds to function as claws, holding other diamonds and gemstones in place. The “inner mortise and tenon setting method” adopts Ming-style architecture joining method, in which the setting materials are given a special cut to form a mortise and tenon joint, so the materials become a perfect fit without a claw.
SECRET ABYSS
Wallace Chan has captured emerald clouds within a single piece of rutilated quartz. The yellow diamond is set on a 6.5MM opening, through which he emptied the stone from within and set inside 1,111 emeralds. The rutilated quartz creates a dreamlike feel, a secret abyss of gleaming, meandering clouds. From concept to creation it took him 10 years to complete this innovation.