dining out
Italian bread were spread thickly with
a sweet fig puree, and topped with
slices of mildly nutty fontina cheese.
Main courses feature homemade
pastas, as well as meat and seafood
specialties. Don’t be skeptical of the
black pasta in the Linguini al Nero di
Seppia e Polpa di Granchio. Chef
Franco Ammirati says he uses just a
touch of squid ink to give the linguini
its dramatic color and subtle brini-
ness. The pasta is dressed lightly
with a shrimp fumée sauce — the
concentrated essence of shrimp —
and gently tossed with diced fresh
tomato and arugula
and a generous top-
AT A GLANCE
• $$$ • BYO
ping of fresh crab
• Closed Mondays
meat. In another col-
• Alfresco dining
orful entrée, the
• Delivery
chicken breast medal-
• Family friendly
lions in Pollo Nico are • Handicapped
accessible
paired with chunks of
• Private room
sausage, roasted red
available
• Take out
peppers and broccoli
rabe, and touched
with a light, herb-flecked tomato
sauce fragrant with garlic and herbs.
Ammirati came out of the kitchen
several times during our meal, and
stopped to chat with us after we fin-
ished our entrees. He noted that
many guests in the room were regular
customers, lingering over their BYO
wine, and relaxing before coffee.
When I complimented Ammirati on
the restaurant’s charming décor, he
noted that much of the furniture was
imported from his native Italy.
Da Nico is casual enough for a family
meal — but equally nice for a special
occasion.
I recommend stretching a bit after
the main course to make room for
Ammirati’s homemade desserts. We
loved Bigne con Gelato, small cream
puffs filled with vanilla gelato and
topped with warm chocolate sauce.
But I was smitten with the chef’s
Crespelle alla Vanilia — a sweet,
warm crepe folded around a filling of
silky vanilla cream, with ripe straw-
berry slices on top and a puddle of
warm chocolate sauce on the side.
It was a delicate confection, yet
lusciously sublime. ■
62
FALL 2017 MILLBURN & SHORT HILLS MAGAZINE
BIGNE CON GELATO
POLLO NICO
CRESPELLE ALLA VANILIA
POLPO ALLA GRIGLIA