MENU dorset issue 23 MENU23.dorset pdf issue 23.new | Page 8

 P
The
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Dorset
L E N T Y 
ital Ingredi ent
Caulif lower
From sideshow to showstopper, Tom East celebrates the renaissance
of the big and beautiful brassica
ou can blitz it in a food processor to make couscous, mix it with
ground almonds and eggs for an alternative pizza base or slice it
into steaks and grill it. It’s hard to think of a vegetable that’s as
versatile as the cauliflower, which is amazing considering that, in
recent history, cauliflower two ways meant boiled to death or
smothered in molten cheese sauce. However, this newly fashionable
vegetable is arguably at its best when roasted.
From potatoes to parsnips and carrots to beetroot, most veggies are
improved by a blast in a hot oven, but the cauliflower is transformed. Its
creamy white curds blister, bringing its natural sugars to the fore and
revealing nutty notes beneath the surface. Anyone who has enjoyed aloo
gobi in an Indian restaurant will know that one of cauliflower’s best assets
is its ability to suck up flavours like a sponge – well, try roasting the florets
(see recipe) and it will be even better, the spices forming a flavoursome
crust while penetrating the flesh below.
You don’t even have to bother breaking it up into florets – smother a
whole cauliflower with spices such as cumin, coriander and turmeric or
slather it with your favourite curry paste before roasting (either blanch
it first or cover it in foil for the first 30 minutes of baking). Shake it up
with different flavours, too – give it a Middle Eastern twist with sumac
and cumin or just keep it simple with garlic, lemon juice and olive oil.
Whatever you decide, it makes for an impressive centrepiece – what was
once a bit on the side is now the main attraction.
Roasting isn’t the only way to bring out cauliflower’s innate nuttiness
– this member of the brassica family is a great source of vitamin C and is
very tasty raw. Slice it very thinly and drizzle with a lemon and olive oil
dressing for an attractive vegan carpaccio or pair it with something sweet
like a crisp apple and some crunchy nuts in a salad.
Finally, going back to the old ways, there is nothing wrong with a good
cauliflower cheese, but if you do slice it into steaks and grill it before
adding the sauce it will be even better. Promise.
'Flower Power - the brassica at its best
Cauliflower pizza
For healthy
has become so
cauliflower rice,
popular that some blitz the florets in a
supermarkets have
food processor
started selling it. before lightly frying.
Roasted cauliflower Look for white
steaks can look very cauliflowers with
attractive straight
no blemishes or
out of the oven and brown patches, plus
nicely charred.
perky green leaves.
www.menu-dorset.co.uk
Roasted Aloo Gobi
(serves 4, with dal and nan bread)
Ingredients
500g chunky cauliflower florets (1 medium-sized
cauliflower)
500g waxy potatoes, cut into bite-sized chunks
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp nigella seeds
½ tsp turmeric
Two large pinches of chilli powder
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 red onion, cut into wedges
1 kg tomatoes, cut in half
2 red chillies, sliced in half
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200°c. Break the cauliflower
up into large florets and cut the potatoes into bite-
sized chunks, then place them to a large roasting
dish with onion wedges. Slice the tomatoes and
chillies in half and put them, skin-side down in
another roasting dish, drizzling with one tablespoon
of olive oil and sprinkling with salt and pepper.
2. Toast the cumin, coriander and fennel seeds in
a dry frying pan for a minute or two to brown them.
Grind the spices in a pestle and mortar or a spice
grinder. Sprinkle the ground spices, including the
turmeric and chilli powder, plus some salt, pepper
and the oil over the potatoes, cauliflower and onion.
Mix it around with your hands.
3. Put the tomatoes and the vegetables in the oven
for an hour, turning the veg halfway through.
4. Once they’re done, mash the tomatoes and pour
over the cooked cauliflower and potatoes. Serve with
nan bread or rice and a dal.