What ' s on the menu
eat out
THE GROSVENOR ARMS
Robin Goodlad finds the new owners have added their own pared back style to this
traditional inn and some of the best local ingredients to an inspired seasonal menu …
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Only a few yards from the iconic Gold Hill in Shaftesbury , in the centre of the town which dates back to the times of Alfred the Great , proudly stands the Grosvenor Arms . No spring chicken itself , it ' s been a coaching inn since medieval times . Through the modern doors , the entrance for horses into the central courtyard can still be recognised , and it still maintains a huge amount of character , elegance and timelessness .
The Grosvenor Arms is part of a small group of quality hotels and inns in the South West , including Timbrell ' s Yard in Bradford on Avon , the White Hart at Somerton , and The Swan at Wedmore . A tasteful , subtle update has added a classic elegance , while retaining a traditional feel . Beautifully styled with an
inviting colour palette , there are interesting features around every corner . From the cosy bar with button-backed sofas and log burner , and the central courtyard with fountain that feels more continental , to the pizza kitchen with its wood-fired oven and Tuscan feel , to the main grand dining room itself , there is an area to give everyone the perfect dining experience whatever the season .
Under the watchful eye of executive chef Tom Blake , who developed his eye for detail at River Cottage , the menu is full of seasonal variety and a genuine earthiness . Local provenance is proudly covered in a large portion of the menu .
The food and drink
The menu itself is the sort which has me salivating within seconds , and then procrastinating for many minutes , in case I miss out on something . Delights such as a
What ' s on the menu
Evening Menu Starters : £ 5.50 – £ 9 Mains : £ 12.50 – £ 23.50 Desserts : £ 6.50 – £ 7.50 smoked pigs cheek with celeriac remoulade , merguez sausage flatbread with hummus and yoghurt , coppa ham roast chicken , or the parsnip and polenta gnocchi , will have to wait till next time . There are , of course , many classics available here , but subtly elevated to dishes like a chimichurri beef burger with paprika mayonnaise , with smoked cheddar and gherkins , or the butternut and kale lasagne with salsa verde .
We had the purple sprouting broccoli tempura with hummus and a citrus salsa , a fabulous celebration of the first vegetables of the year , enticing to the eye as well with such vibrant colours . The exemplary smoked haddock fishcake with bulgur wheat and a poached egg was delicately spiced , with a crisp coat , and the
" A venue can be judged on a classic dish like this and it was simply outstanding " egg yolk was the perfect sauce .
For the main course , the sirloin steak was one of the finest I have ever tasted . The depth of flavour and tenderness was incredible , with crispy onions , beautiful mushrooms , and a garlic and parsley dressing , with wild watercress . A venue can be judged on a classic dish like this and it was simply outstanding . The Cornish hake , with local chorizo to add a salty warmth and depth of flavour , earthy beetroot and an explosion from the caper berries , was equally delicious . A beautifully thought through dish celebrating many great local ingredients .
The dessert
To the desserts , and I ' m struggling to remember a better one . The buttermilk panna cotta with honey roasted rhubarb and a pumpkin seed praline was a triumph . It looked stunning , and tasted even better ; a rich flavoursome creaminess , perfectly offset with the sharpness of rhubarb , and the crunch of the praline . I could have eaten it twice over . Meanwhile the Grosvenor sundae , towering proudly in a tall glass to display every layer , was magnificent . Home made vanilla ice cream and brownie , home made honeycomb , and toffee sauce ; the sort of dessert you have to reach over the table and try a spoonful of .
Menu ’ s verdict
Of course , we never even got to try the pizza menu , full of Mediterranean authenticity and the finest local charcuterie cooked in the open oven . That is just one reason of many we need to return for another exceptional experience at the Grosvenor Arms .
The Grosvenor Arms The Commons , Shaftesbury , Dorset SP7 8JA grosvenorarms . co . uk 01747 850 580 www . menu-dorset . co . uk