MENU dorset issue 11 11 | Page 35

RJ Balson and Son , Bridport

RJ Balson and Son , Bridport

Dating back to 1515 , RJ Balson & Son is not only Britain ’ s oldest butcher , but also the oldest family-run business in the country . Featured in every national newspaper and food magazine , it ’ s no stretch to say they know more than just a thing or two about beef .

“ The main thing with beef is that local is better ,” begins Richard Balson . “ Most of ours comes from 12 miles away .” Next , it must be kept properly . “ It ’ s the hanging that ’ s important ,” he says . “ You don ’ t want it too fresh . You want to hang it for about 3 weeks . As the muscle begins to break down it goes darker and will be more tender .”
Dark meat ? Surely the best beef comes bright pink in a cute plastic tray ? “ If you showed people a piece of meat that is nearly black , they ’ ll never choose it ,” Richard admits . “ Only a real connoisseur would know that that ’ s the way beef should be . I ’ ve got customers that come in my shop who want beef that ’ s been hung an extra week .”
One of the biggest challenges beef has had to overcome , Richard continues , is a change in people ’ s lifestyles – the fact of the matter is , we simply don ’ t have as much time to spend in the kitchen as we used to .
“ If you go back 50 years , you bought a bigger joint that lasted all week and you had it roasted on a Sunday , cold on a Monday , minced or stewed on a Tuesday and so on . Now people want something that they can cook in 20 minutes .
As well as quality meat , your local butcher can offer useful cooking tips
People don ’ t have the time and we ’ re all out working .”
As a result , we ’ re used to buying small , boneless joints . A lost opportunity , in Richard ’ s opinion . “ On the bone it has more flavour , although you need to know how to carve it . But everything now is done for ease . People want a small joint that they can carve quick and use up in one go .”
Time is short , but that ’ s not the only factor contributing to a customer ’ s meat-buying habits – we ’ re also under greater financial pressure . Surely supermarkets represent the cheaper option when it comes to beef ? Richard doesn ’ t think so .
“ I ’ ve got a supermarket just up the road and I guarantee I ’ m cheaper nine times out of ten ,” he says . “ Especially at Christmas time . Some of the prices they ’ re charging for their boneless beef is nearly double what I ’ m charging . And if you buy from a budget supermarket , you ’ re not getting something that ’ s local or even English .”
Balson & Son can advise customers on the cheaper cuts such as skirt , and how to cook it , since it needs a little more attention to counter the toughness .
“ I enjoy talking to people and giving them advice . The thing about coming to your family butcher is that you ’ ll get some handy hints on cooking , storing or preparing . We have a personal service , we know their names and , more often than not , I know what the customer wants before they ’ ve even come in the door ,” he says .
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The family business began in 1515 and has been in Bridport since 1880
Balson & Son still deliver , but it ' s no longer by motorbike and sidecar www . menu-dorset . co . uk