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THE PLANTATION
A major refurbishment in 2014 has put this elegant colonial-style pub/restaurant
right in the mix of Poole’s fine dining scene, writes Nick Marshall
he living was already easy in Canford Cliffs, with
Sandbanks and Poole Harbour a short walk in one
direction, and Bournemouth up the coast in the
other. Come at the weekend, and a steady convoy of
designer labels with the obligatory spaniel in tow makes
its way from the village, down the chines, to a Blue Flag
beach, which is backed by some of the oldest beach huts
in Europe. It’s fair to assume several of these wanderers
will more than likely stop for lunch and a loosener at The
Plantation, in search of formidable, locally-sourced cuisine,
real ale, and a warm welcome.
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The restaurant
There’s plenty of bar seating inside for those cold winter
afternoons, clean-lined restaurant seating for more formal
dining, and a delightful conservatory for
soaking up the sun. In summer, head out to
the garden to take a trestle table or huddle
beneath a thatch-roof hut.
The menu
Head Chef Seth Le Noury had some big
boots to fill when he arrived in February,
but established himself in style with an
ambitious but refined menu that pays
homage to seasonal Dorset produce.
Choose from trusty gastro-pub dishes, such
as fish and chips, burger with Westcombe
Cheddar, or Dorset gammon, all around the
£13 mark. Alternatively, take your pick from
a changing seasonal selection that
incorporates fresh catch, Dorset steak, and
local vegetables imbued with the same
colonial flourishes that define the decor.
And you’ll still have change from £20.
The food
On a Saturday lunch with the sun above, the conservatory
lends itself equally to spreading out with a bowl of chunky
chips and the big papers, as much as it does for settling
down for three-courses of quality cuisine
among the banana leaves. To start, the
seared scallops with king prawn, samphire,
and garlic butter is a triumph of condensed
flavour, while the heritage beets with
goat’s cheese and candied walnuts is light
and f [و