Views take in wild lands, home to foxes, bobcats, coyotes, black
bears, and cougars. The four-acre solar array in the meadow is
a clue to the philosophy of co-founder Ed King Jr. The idea for a
winery here came from his son, Ed King III, and today, the farm
stands as an example of his goal of working with nature to create
great wines and fresh local ingredients.
“If you go out and pick it now and then cook it—that’s the
best,” King says.
Inside, the bar and restaurant create an oasis of refinement with
lush Persian carpets beneath a high ceiling. The hostess seats us
on comfortable chairs at a table near the grand stone fireplace.
Our hands unfold crisp white napkins as menus arrive.
The server delivers butter and a vari ety of sourdough
breads, made in a three-day process by pastry chef and baker
Shane Tracey. From the selection of starters and charcuterie,
created from local meats by Tim Bass, we opt for sharing raw
oysters from Netarts Bay.
Foods that are not produced on-site are sourced nearby from
certified organic producers. Chef Sean Winder insists on using
as many estate-grown products as is practical.
“Being out here in the country preserves the purity of
the experience,” he says. “This place never settles for
complacency and never takes the easy way.”
The fine dining farm to table restaurant focuses on pairing
award-winning pinots with fresh, local foods in season. After
lunch, we meet master gardener Jessie Russell who, since 2006,
has overseen 26 acres of gardens on the 1,033-acre property. “I
do the A to F, and H to Z—everything but grapes,” she says.
Recent hire Charlie Theis, Ed King III’s nephew, joins Russell in
his new role as gardener/forager and is responsible for growing
vegetables. “Soil interests me much more than water pumps and
light bulbs,” says Theis, who sold his medical marijuana farm
and is committed now to bringing high-tech, climate-controlled
production to the estate’s biodynamic greenhouses.
Stewardship of soil maximizes efficient production in a world
getting smaller, says Theis. “I believe in the leverage of nature
as the ultimate technology—for instance, using beneficial
nematodes and insects, especially in the closed ecosystem of
the greenhouse. We can liberate ourselves from sprays simply
by introducing the plants where beneficials breed.”
The result of science, stewardship, and attention to detail is
on display when our meal arrives. Lightly cooked, wild-caught
salmon is served on a parsnip puree with roasted Brussels
sprouts. My companions enjoy roast chicken with smashed
potatoes, and a pulled pork sandwich with sweet potato fries.
The butternut squash dumplings, steak, burger, and lamb on
the menu are all tempting, too. A number of vegetable sides and
desserts would satisfy the most finicky. We bypass fancy coffee
drinks to sip simple, fresh-brewed coffee.
On my next visit, I plan to try the roasted beets with quince apple
sauce, goat cheese, hazelnut vinaigrette, and “gathered greens.”
“
I believe in the leverage of nature as the ultimate
technology—for instance, using beneficial
nematodes and insects, especially in the closed
ecosystem of the greenhouse. We can liberate
ourselves from sprays simply by introducing the
plants where beneficials breed.”
The “gathered greens” is intriguing. Turns out Chef Winder
has long walked the hills seeking out seasonal wild greens
and mushrooms. Theis plans to expand on that. “My soul
demands the outdoors and a deep connection with nature,”
he says. Wild salads will be on the menu this season, as well
as early and late root vegetables, tomatoes, broccoli, and
greens from his greenhouses. Russell’s orchards and large
berry patches produce, among many local pleasures, Shinko
pears with raspberries—a favorite summer dessert. Fall
brings apples for sauce and crisp cold cider.
The winter season is very quiet with few visitors and
curtailed service. That’s the time for doing the support
chores to make it all work. Around Mother’s Day in
mid-May, things heat up as people drive out to celebrate.
And the action is in full swing all summer and through
the feasting of late November.
King Estate features free escorted winery tours every day;
you’ll want walking shoes to explore the grounds. Restaurant
reservations are encouraged at 1-541-685-5189. The schedule for
spring through fall is as follows: brunch Saturday and Sunday,
10 a.m.–4:30 p.m.; lunch, Monday to Friday, 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m.;
dinner, Wednesday to Sunday, 4:30–8 p.m.
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