groundbreaker
farm to table
by Barbara H. Shaw
By working with nature, King Estate have created
a one-of-a-kind farm to table restaurant that is a
unique experience for all who visit and lends new
meaning to the phrase “beyond organic.”
A
t King Estate near Eugene, Oregon, cooperation with nature
leads to unique outcomes. Birds of prey restored to health
at Cascade Raptor Center and feral cats captured in Eugene,
then vaccinated and neutered, are prized here.
That’s because the predators effectively control ground squir-
rels, voles, and other small animals that live to ravage vines
and food crops. In addition, the estate protects 150 acres of rare
oak woodlands and riparian habitat along a stream that feeds
the Siuslaw River. Several endemic endangered species get
special protection, too. And their own bees boost pollination
while producing 200 pounds of honey each year.
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groundbreakers
Top: Estate-grown foods served on-site are
produced by greenhouse manager Charlie Theis
and long-time garden manager Jessie Russell,
who put focus on blending old-time soil upgrades
and natural pest control with high tech methods.
Above: Greenhouse manager Charlie Theis is a
nephew of founder Ed King III.
Clearly, owners of the largest biodynamic vineyard in the US
take organic seriously.
But the visitor won’t see the bigger picture, or the complexity
behind the scenes, unless she digs. A visit is all about delight,
whether focused on fine wines or not.
Beyond the entry gate, long rows of perfectly pruned grape
vines line the road. We pass an orchard in bloom, humming
hives, big greenhouses, and wooly sheep busy shearing
weeds between the vines. Parking at the top of the hill, we
discover a formal landscape that sets off the hard-working
farm from the winery and restaurant.