Masters of Health Magazine June 2017 | Page 36

In pharmaceutical topical preparations which deliver drugs, alcohols are used as penetration enhancers because, “the permeation enhancer subsequently facilitates that of the solute (in the sense of a simple co-permeation).” (Lachenmeier, 2008)

The researchers in this review concluded:

“Topically applied ethanol acts as a skin penetration enhancer and may facilitate the transdermal absorption of xenobiotics (eg. Carconigenic contaminants in cosmetic formulations). Ethanol use is associated with skin irritation or contact dermatitis, especially in humans with an aldehyde dehydrogenase (ALDH) deficiency.”

This means that wherever topical creams, lotions, sprays or patches are used which contain alcohols, other chemicals present can also breach the skin barrier along with the alcohol. All the attention on the deleterious effects of parabens in cosmetics have lead some manufacturers to an alternative which is just as bad or even worse – such as phenoxyethanol! Make sure to read your ingredient labels in order to avoid toxins.

In addition to ethanol, cosmetic and drug manufacturers can also use other chemicals which disturb the skin barrier, such as the commonly used surfactant sodium laurel sulphate. Studies showed after repeated use it, “irreversibly caused protein denaturation, membrane expansion, hole-formation, and the loss of water-binding capacity.” Other surfactants that can also enhance penetration are propylene glycol and dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). This list is by no means exhaustive!

Even the terpenes of essential oils can be penetration enhancers, so be careful of what other ingredients are present at the same time. It is recommended to use essential oils within a carrier lipid to dilute them. There are warnings for pregnant women when using essential oil in case they absorb too much of certain oils which can be toxic. Some essential oils can be very beneficial to mood enhancement and relaxation, but take precautions by limiting dose. Refer to your health practitioner if not sure.

Remember that plant oils support the skin barrier protection system, resisting entry of toxic elements the body does not recognise as a nutrient. They help the skin channels open and close as required. However that doesn’t mean cheap creams made of chemical thickeners, emulsifiers and preservatives, petrochemical ingredients or surfactants that can breach the skin’s barrier. Even if a chemicalized cream has a token gesture of plant oils lower in the ingredient list, it may help marketing, but not much else.

A good reference website listing the most toxic chemical ingredients that can be found in cosmetics is at: www.collective-evolution.com – but there are many more websites that are also worthy of investigation.

We are witnessing an increasing trend of skin disorders with not enough solutions offered that actually work. Paraffin (petrochemical)-based products are often recommended by doctors because they provide a kind of ‘extra skin’ to prevent water loss – and they do. However, they end up actually drying and denaturing the skin over time.

Cortisone (adrenaline-based anti-inflammatory) steroid cream is often prescribed to curb inflammation and pain, but it comes with many unwanted side effects including allergic reactions and even excessive weight gain. Many just can’t tolerate it. The bottom line is that it works like an aspirin to dumb down pain and swelling, but doesn’t address the issues that caused the skin barrier to malfunction. It does not offer the nutritional support the skin so desperately needs.

Magnesium’s Importance to the Cell Membrane

Just like the epidermis, the membranes of our cells also have a barrier function with ‘doors and windows’ (channels) that open and close to release waste products or take up water, oxygen and nutrients.

Magnesium is essential for cell membrane integrity as it holds together the lipid bilayer of cells with its charge and affinity for phosphatidylserine (PS) lipids. “PS lipids are the most abundant negatively charged lipids forming cell membranes. The cations of magnesium and calcium cause the aggregation [binding together] of those lipids to form a membrane.” (Martin-Molina, Rodriguez-Beas, & Faraudo, 2012)