Mélange Travel & Lifestyle Magazine July 2016 - Page 47

Lazy Days in Eleuthera | Mélange Travel & Lifestyle Magazine

golf carts through the narrow streets.

area and French doors opening to a concrete deck
which ran the length of the house and had a stunning
vista of the Caribbean. Below the house was a cistern
where rainwater collected for our use. We rented a
rubber dinghy with an outboard motor for the week
so that we could zoom around to other beaches and
drop anchor for a snorkel wherever we liked.

Tourist infrastructure on Eleuthera is significantly
less than on the more visited islands of Paradise and
Grand Bahama and in order to pick up our rental
car (keep left!), we had to stop at a tiny bar to get the
keys to a 1970’s clunker that barely ran and had no
radio but we didn’t mind as we zoomed alongside
spectacular white sand beaches on the Queen’s
Highway, Eleuthera’s one main road.

From our palapa we watched barracuda and bonefish,
small sharks and colorful parrotfish go by. We took a
picnic lunch and beach blankets to Ten Bay beach and
set up for the day in the welcome shade of the pines
and luxuriated in reading books and finding sand
dollars in the shallows.

We stopped by Governor’s Harbour, the main
settlement on Eleuthera and visited a little grocery
where we bought some staples and local produce
from a friendly old gentleman, before heading to
our vacation rental cottage in Ten Bay Beach. The
islanders make a living through farming and fishing
and fresh fish and pineapples are readily available
while most other items are imported and very
expensive. A low quality half gallon of orange juice
was a prohibitive $8.00 but in the rum shop next door
we found good local rum for $3.00.

Some days we drove to the little settlements along
the coast: Tarpon Bay, Palmetto Point or Rock Sound
to try out the various luncheonettes for cracked
Conch served with coleslaw and homemade breads
by gregarious Bahamian women. We visited tiny
bakeries housed in the front rooms of private homes
to buy fresh loaves and sweet breads and stopped
into the cool shade of little galley like rum shops for
frosty Kaliks or rum punches. Everyone we met was
welcoming and kind.

Ten Bay Beach is a gorgeous stretch of white sand
ringed by Casuarina trees and pines. The water is gin
clear and shallow out for over a hundred yards so you
can stroll in knee to waist deep water far from shore
and splash with the friendly island dogs that frequent
the area. Our “villa” sat on a small cliff ’s edge with
steps down to a little thatched palapa where we could
step into the water and have near complete privacy in
our own cove.

Our week in Eleuthera ended with a flight to Abaco
aboard a little prop plane with five seats. The Captain
arranged us by weight to keep us aloft and I had the
honor of sitting in the copilot’s seat where I watched
the pilot lazily glide us away from the mermaid
shaped island and back to civilization.

For $650 we had two bedrooms and two bathrooms,
a full kitchen and dining area, a comfortable living