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dating from pre-history to late
antiquity. Among the most dazzling
were the golden funerary masks
of deceased Mycenean nobles –
especially one that’s in so many
school textbooks and mistakenly
labeled as the mask of Agamemnon.
Equally stunning was the majestic
bronze statue of Zeus -- or Poseidon,
scholars aren’t quite sure.
The rest of our time in Athens was
spent enjoying the same things
Athenians enjoy: delicious mezze
(small dishes like Spanish tapas) at
cozy taverna, sipping frappé coffee
(the Greek version of iced coffee,
topped with milky foam) at outdoor
cafés, strolling the commercial
streets, with an occasional look at
the Monastiraki Flea Market, where
anything from cheap T-shirts to
hand-painted icons to gold jewelry
could be found.
Moving on to Mykonos by fast ferry,
we landed at the old harbor, where
we could see at once that of all of
Greece’s 227 inhabited islands, this
was the one dedicated to non-stop
fun. In the early 1960s shipping
magnate Aristotle Onassis
“discovered” Mykonos, brought Jackie
Kennedy here – and soon the island
became an exclusive playground for
celebrities like Grace Kelly, Brigitte
Bardot and Sophia Loren.
Today it’s a bustling, bursting-atthe-seams place with glorious
beaches, waterfront cafes, shopping
in every price range (both
international brands and local
crafts), water sports and delicious
food (especially fresh fish).
The largest town on the island is
Mykonos town, also known as Chora
or Hora; a few miles inland is the
village of Ano Mera. The subject
of many paintings by local artists,
Mykonos is a feast for the eyes, with
its azure waters, houses painted
white with brightly colored shutters,
bougainvillea trees in bloom, iconic
windmills and colorful fishing boats.
popular subjects for photographers
and artists.
What we loved is that everything
in town was walk-able. The winding
streets (local legend says they were
so designed to repel pirates) off the
harbor housed shops, restaurants,
cafés and churches, all waiting to
be explored.
Overlooking the town are the
famous white Venetian windmills
(Kato Myli), the first landmark
passengers see when ships and
ferries approach the harbor. Built
by the Venetians in the 16th
century, they were used to grind
wheat until the early 20th century.
Some have been restored, all are
Part of our trip package was
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a walking tour that included the
Kastro (castle area), the oldest part
of town. Here we saw a workman
whitewashing the Byzantine church
Panaga Paraportiani, the oldest in
Mykonos – and perhaps the most
photographed church in Greece.
Though building started in 1475,
it’s really a group of five smaller
churches, constructed over a period
of time and completed only in the
17th century.