I
approached slowly, feeling a gentle pull, as
if by a magnetic force. Then, I wanted to
stop, cement my feet to the ground, and
simply stare. My mouth gaped open, like an
opera singer belting an aria, as I tried to
comprehend the extreme, yet serene view.
Ahead of me lie a bevy of marble domes, four
towering minarets, and a thousand jeweled
columns rising from delicate inlaid floors.
Yet, I had thoughts of Aladdin and magic
carpets in my head. My western upbringing
slipped back to childhood storybooks. I recalled
pictures from the Tales of 1,001 Arabian
Nights. Since I’m not an experienced Middle
East traveler, the architecture seemed exotic
and foreign. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in
Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, is (of course)
a religious shrine and not a fairytale
fabrication. The pure white-on-white structure
is an astonishing architectural treasure, a
tranquil site that seems too beautiful to be
real. I foresee it earning iconic status, like
Notre Dame or the Taj Mahal. Perhaps it will
replace one of the 7 New Wonders of the World
when it becomes more widely recognized.
Within the Grand Mosque
Abu Dhabi’s Grand Mosque
The Grand Mosque began as a dream in the
heart of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan AlNahyan. Plans for the building were developed
in the late 1980′s; however, construction didn’t
start until November 5, 1996. At one point,
more than 3,000 workers were employed
onsite. Today, the 241,220 square foot complex
is equivalent to about five NFL football fields
and can accommodate 41,000 worshipers,
approximately 10,000 of those on the interior.
Although some areas, like the gardens, are
still under construction, the internal prayer
halls first opened in 2007 and have remained
in use since.
The public is welcome to visit on their own
or for guided tours inside and out, except on
Fridays when only Muslims may enter. Dress
rules should be followed and black gowns,
called abayas, are available for women needing
additional covering. Tour guides are very open
to answering questions and mine did his best
to help me understand the country’s
prevailing religion.
The Grand Mosque features more than 80
domes of Moroccan design or onion shaped
crowns, all decorated with white marble. The
main dome’s outer shell measures 107 feet in
diameter and stands 279 feet tall on the
exterior – the largest of its kind, according to
the Turkey Research Center for Islamic History
and Culture. While huge and gracefully divine,
it is not the same shape nor as immense as
Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence or St. Peter’s
Basilica in the Vatican.
You’ll find 96 columns in the main prayer hall,
all inlaid with mother of pearl. The world’s
largest chandelier is suspended under the
main dome and weighs over twelve tons. The
sparkling jewel represents the date palm; the
tree that sustains life in this desert region.
There are six additional chandeliers and all
feature thousands of Swarovski crystals from
Austria and glass-work from Italy. I’d say,
“gargantuanly gorgeous” is an understatement.
You’ll also find yourself standing on the world’s
largest hand-knotted carpet. The Mosque’s
Visitor Services states, “It was designed by
Iranian artist, Ali Khaliqi. The carpet consists
of 2,268,000 knots all hand-crafted by
approximately 1,200 artisans in small villages
near Mashhadin in Iran, a region renowned for
its carpet making.” The staff change the
sanctioned off visitor walkways daily, to even
out wear on the rug.
The Qibla wall faces the direction of the
Holy City of Mecca, the direction used during
prayers. The expanse, measuring 75 feet high
by 164 feet wide, contains subtle fiber-optic
lighting, giving it a faint ethereal glow.
Inscribed on the wall, in traditional Kufi
calligraphy, are the 99 names or qualities of
Allah. My guide explained these with examples
such as “the Most Merciful, the Almighty, and
the Judge.” The Mehrab (niche found in the
middle of the Qibla wall) is showcased with
golden-glass mosaics. Interior spaces are
roped off for those who have come to pray.
While security does not permit wandering
just anywhere, the grounds are so spacious;
19
it remains possible to find quiet retreats. The
outdoor reflection pools adjacent to the arched
colonnades called to me. I could have sat there
pondering the perfection in this peaceful place
for hours.
As the sun was setting, I heard the traditional
call to prayer and watched the faithful file
in; many were workers at the Mosque. I
photographed the exterior arches and domes
as the sky darkened and the site came alive,
literally glowing with illumination. Visitors
to Abu Dhabi should see the shrine by day
and night to fully appreciate its grandeur.
Similar to grand Gothic cathedrals, now over
a thousand years old, the Sheik Zayed Grand
Mosque will develop and mature as a pilgrimage
site for Muslims and tourists during the next
millennium. Tis humbling to stand in a relatively
new sacred place, yet realize that millions
will witness the powerful spot over time.
The United Arab Emirates has created a
sublime work of art that can withstand
the test of time.
Photography by Debi Lander.