Travel
would or at least should interest
any human being? This museum,
that left me sobbing, also remains
unfre uented. useum officials,
thrilled I hadn’t completed the
museum in 3 hours, didn’t shut
until I’d read every word in it!
For those disinclined to museums,
the hotel has an efficient and
complementary shuttle service
to Table Mountain, Camps Bay, the
Waterfront and neighbourhood
restaurants. The concierge, Byron,
likes sending guests to Bistro
Societi, where manager Johan
delights, vodka-spiked pasta stuns
(specify al dente!) and risotto’s the
best in town. Butternut equals
their celebrated mushroom risotto.
And death-by-chocolate cake is
to-die-for.
n amps Bay visits, chauffeurs
rather too keenly stop you at certain
restaurants. y chauffeur on that
occasion also takes me to the
Bungalow bar. It is midday. A white
man says to my coloured chauffeur,
“The colour of your glasses is better
than the colour of your complexion.”
Through a glass darkly.
Ellerman House (Cape Town): It is a
house, not a hotel, I’m informed. It’s
certainly not a home, for one never
feels quite at home at Cape Town’s
most exclusive property (no walkins!). It is all wooded and wonderful.
There’s ubiquitous artwork and
views of seas and sweeping trees
on manicured lawns. I’m amazed,
and also cold. Perhaps guests here
bring along their fur coats.
My room, No 5, is massive, oldfashioned, very English. But the
seascape from my terrace strikingly
reminds I’m in Cape Town. Striking
too is that the city’s priciest rooms
haven’t fruit baskets or butler.
There’s no concierge either. Perhaps
one is expected to travel with one’s
PA? Take along a packer too if your
arm is bandaged like mine. (South
frican irlines staff finally helped
me pack at the airport).
place, with pieces inspired by wine
and brandy-making. Spectacularly
in the centre of the gallery,
temperature-controlled wine bottles
wind round a crafted spiral, evoking
a grapevine, a corkscrew or a
vinously spinning head.
I liked Chef Veronica’s supper in
the elegant dining room. The pastry
chef especially impressed.
Breakfasts, chic and compact and
with outstanding rye bread, are
enjoyed over breathtaking views.
My “enjoyment” impaired by the
GM’s insistent remarks that I’d
rocked up to breakfast ten minutes
before breakfast closed.
Ellerman ouse is one of those stiff,
old-school establishments, “school”
being the operative word. I didn’t
quite grasp house rules, and felt like
a schoolgirl, constantly ticked off
by headmistress-like management,
it’s ironic how consistently it was
impressed upon me that I was
“enjoying” myself, nevertheless.
Admittedly, I rather enjoyed spa
therapist Louise’s power-packed
massages. Its new wine gallery has
artwork captures the spirit of the
There’s apparently a complimentary
shuttle service within a fifteen km
radius, subject to availability. But it
wasn’t ever available, complimentary
airport drops being prioritised, it’s
explained. But when I needed an
airport drop, I found myself
deposited at the airport five hours
before my ight, because the
chauffeur had to get groceries yes!
and then fetch someone from their
gallivants. Intricacies of this shuttle
service mystify. A comp airport
transfer is guaranteed, but this
could well be twenty-four hours
before your ight.
“ oar frica specialises in bespoke
itineraries”
I , LL .
www.roarafrica.com
New York | Cape Town
(USA) +1.212.300.4511
(USA M) +1.347.935.2765 |
(SA M) +27.76.655.4100
Ellerman House Cape Town
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