Jessica ran the place, and they were
exceptionally hospitable and kind
– going out of their way to make us
feel welcome and comfortable. They
joined us for dinner most nights and
enjoyed talking to us about their
town and laid back island lifestyle. If
I could have bottled up their élan, I
would have brought it back with me.
Each day, we explored the sparsely
inhabited La Maddalena Archipelago
National Park, with its crystal clear
water, surreal rock formations and
picture perfect coves. The rocks
often took on recognizable shapes
such as animals or humans, even
Disney characters. Some, like
Octopus Rock, had been previously
identified and named accordingly.
Wild and relatively untouched, this
area is regarded by those in the
know as one of the Mediterranean’s
best kayaking playgrounds. We
visited isolated islands, swam and
52
snorkeled in the warm turquoise sea,
and picnicked at unspoiled beaches
reached only via the water. Enrique
would lie out the booty for the day’s
lunch, and we would devour the fresh
vegetables and fruit, meats and
cheeses, and crusty bread with
relish. Then we blissfully relaxed,
our hunger sated, in the idyllic
environment of sun-drenched
beaches and dazzling sea.
One of the days we went inland on
Sardinia for a look at the island’s
verdant and hilly countryside. It also
served as an opportunity to gain
insight into the vibrant culture of
the region. Historical sites dot the
landscape, depicting the various
invasions over the centuries. The
mesh of different influences can
still be seen today in the island’s
archaeology and architecture. Roman
remains exist, along with the conical
towers of the Nuraghi (which date
back to the Bronze Age), and are
considered a symbol of Sardinia.
More than 7,000 of these ancient
edifices have been found over the
years, though archaeologists believe
there are nearly 10,000 in existence.
Food was an integral part of the
trip, and Enrique and his convivial
assistant Daniele took their mission
seriously when it came to introducing
us to the numerous regional
specialties; from fried anchovies and
octopus salad to chickpea focaccia,
Sardinian cracker bread and seabream
ravioli with clams. Each meal was a
farm-and-sea-to-table gastronomic
feast for the senses, accompanied by
local wines, and ending with a shot
of limoncello or mirto – a special
liqueur made from berries. As for
the gelato, I aimed at trying a new
flavor each day – for research
purposes, of course! All were
deliciously creamy and flavorful, but
the winner