LOCAL Houston | The City Guide September 2017 - Page 26

“We kept the brunch menu pretty much as it was – tweaking it here and there.” Lowbrow “We kept the brunch menu pretty much as it was – tweaking it here and there,” says Sheely. Big fluffy biscuits anchor several breakfast plates. My fave? Easy choice. The Chicken & Biscuits – crispy chicken schnitzel with a sweet and spicy honey sauce, scrambled eggs and a dollop of queso-–soft biscuits, crunchy, crunchy chicken, smooth queso. Texture city and super delicious. less auditory stimulation should request a patio table. At lunch the burger – juicy, meaty, loaded with goodies – rules. The Croque Madame made from thick Texas toast and topped with a runny fried egg runs a close second. Not so adventurous? You‘ll be happy with the Biscuit Benedict, a country ham and biscuit rip on the traditional. And if you are super hungry hit up the Lowbrow twist on steak and eggs – CFS, eggs your way and creamy dreamy cheese grits. Sheely has begun to work some Mockingbird-style magic at dinner time – having just introduced slow-braised short ribs with horseradish mash and haricot vert to the menu, joining other Mockingbird faves like scallops on a bed of grits with mustard greens and a balsamic curry sauce and the classic NY strip steak frites. Currently, he features a mesquite-grilled ribeye with Indian summer succotash as an evening special. While you are mulling over the choices, share the fried brie – a wedge of pungency, coated in panko crumbs and deep fried to a golden crisp crust, oozing goodness into the streak of honey mustard. Like Sheely himself, Lowbrow is a work in progress. Dishes will continue to be refined, as the menu responds to seasonal availability and customer reactions. If you are old enough to remember Sheely‘s Riviera Grill, you may not appreciate the brunch DJ – tho the hordes of ball cap-wearing millennials seem most content to shout over their eggs and biscuits. Those who prefer He hopes that his long-time Mockingbird patrons will find their way to this Menil district location. They should make the effort and so should you. LOWBROW 1601 West Main St. | Houston, TX 77006 | 713.527.8647 www.lowbrowhtx.com 26 L O C A L | september 17