LOCAL Houston | The City Guide September 2017 - Page 24

DINE WRITE HIGH PRAISE FOR LOWBROW Take In John Sheely’s Next Act By Janice Schindeler | Photography by Sarah Miller 8.19.2017 9:45am CFS and Eggs Over the years, Lowbrow, John Sheely‘s new spot, has been a thing or two – a coffee shop, a pizza joint and a burger kinda house. And, over the years, Sheely has reinvented himself: the path of his career not a straight shot to stardom, rather a twisty road of experimentation, personal growth and professional development. Most know him and his food from his 16-year run at the Montrose-based Mockingbird (the bouillabaisse was dream food for me). A lucky few may recall his Riviera Grill at Westheimer and Gessner – 21 years ago, his debut restaurant. When I show up for brunch at Lowbrow, Sheely reminds me that I wrote the first article on Riviera Grill and the wondrous French accented food he served in that teeny, tiny inauspicious strip mall location. 24 L O C A L | september 17 (I admit it. I am a Sheely fan. I have been for long time. We have a mutual admiration – Sheely has put my marvelous pimento cheese on the menu as an appetizer item.) Over the years, Sheely has worked hard keeping the popular Mockingbird humming along while trying his hand at an upscale and large Osteria Mazzantina, in the trendy Post Oak district. Didn‘t work. He retreated to Mockingbird until December 24 of last year when he served the last meal. Landlord issues.