LOCAL Houston | The City Guide October 2017 - Page 19

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE Royal Red Shrimp Frog Legs says Lachaine of the ethereal Eastern European wonders with their crusty exterior and smooth, soothing, soul-satisfying filling. Other notes of his home: Bannock – a traditional native bread of the plains dwellers – leavened with Canadian beer, and the Montreal smoked meat platter with its pickled mustard seeds, rye bread slabs and good old French’s® yellow mustard. The menu is one page with items listed one right after the other. The first 12 items are appetizer style. Small plates but large enough for two to have a few tasty bites. Though woe be to the dining partner that tries to taste my corn gnocchi, flavorful dumplings in a cotija fondue – so tasty yet so light – cheese air – I can’t get enough. A sprinkling of espelette – basically a fancy French version of cayenne, adds a snap of fireworks to the plate. “It‘s a summer dish, but it‘s a top seller – we are trying to figure out how to keep it on the menu year round,” groans Lachaine. Take the cheddar and potato pierogi that accompanies Riel’s best-selling menu item, the juicy, moist hangar steak If you are not up on your French cooking words, you should have many questions for your waiter. They have the answers. Like what is a soubise? Answer: a classic sauce made from pureed onion and cooked rice. However, remember that Lachaine twist? The soubise served with the Vermillion Snapper Crudo is made with pureed fennel. Torchon is a method of preparing foie gras. Which you won’t see until you hit the bottom of the menu where the desserts are listed. Lachaine offers a mighty fine Sticky Toffee Pudding – topped with shaved 10 . 2017 | L O C A L 19