LOCAL Houston | The City Guide October 2017 | Page 19

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE
Royal Red Shrimp
Frog Legs
says Lachaine of the ethereal Eastern European wonders with their crusty exterior and smooth, soothing,
soul-satisfying filling.
Other notes of his home: Bannock – a traditional native bread of the plains dwellers – leavened with
Canadian beer, and the Montreal smoked meat platter with its pickled mustard seeds, rye bread slabs
and good old French’s® yellow mustard.
The menu is one page with items listed one right after the other. The first 12 items are appetizer style.
Small plates but large enough for two to have a few tasty bites. Though woe be to the dining partner
that tries to taste my corn gnocchi, flavorful dumplings in a cotija fondue – so tasty yet so light – cheese
air – I can’t get enough. A sprinkling of espelette – basically a fancy French version of cayenne, adds a
snap of fireworks to the plate. “It‘s a summer dish, but it‘s a top seller – we are trying to figure out how
to keep it on the menu year round,” groans Lachaine.
Take the cheddar and
potato pierogi that
accompanies Riel’s
best-selling menu
item, the juicy, moist
hangar steak
If you are not up on your French cooking words, you should have many questions for your waiter. They
have the answers. Like what is a soubise? Answer: a classic sauce made from pureed onion and cooked
rice. However, remember that Lachaine twist? The soubise served with the Vermillion Snapper Crudo is
made with pureed fennel.
Torchon is a method of preparing foie gras. Which you won’t see until you hit the bottom of the menu
where the desserts are listed. Lachaine offers a mighty fine Sticky Toffee Pudding – topped with shaved
10 . 2017 |
L O C A L
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