LOCAL Houston | The City Guide OCTOBER 2015

DINE WRITE A DRY-AGED CLASSIC Beef Carpaccio ABOUT A DOZEN YEARS AGO, AFTER SELLING TICKETS TO MICHAEL JORDAN’S LAST PRO GAME IN HOUSTON (FOR A RIDICULOUS SUM ON EBAY), SOME BUDDIES AND I CHOSE TO CELEBRATE AT PAPPAS BROS. STEAKHOUSE ON WESTHEIMER. ONE OF THE BEST MEALS EVER. THE SERVICE WAS OUTSTANDING AND SINCE WE WERE ORDERING A FAIR AMOUNT OF WINE, THIS BRILLIANT YOUNG SOMMELIER SPENT TIME ADVISING AND EDUCATING US. I’ve been back of course, but recently I was lucky enough to get a tour with dinner. The general manager, JASON EAGAN, showed me around and talked about the dry-aging process they do in-house – the reason they serve such beautiful and delicious steaks. I started with deviled eggs. Nothing like fresh Maine lobster and honey pepper bacon to optimize a traditional favorite. Not to be outdone was the Carpaccio: beautiful pink prime beef accompanied by arugula, thinly sliced potato and crispy flatbread, served on a giant Himalayan salt block. Consistency is everything. The restaurant turns 20 soon and the same butcher has cut the steaks, day in and day out, the whole time. The staff is like family. Eagan himself has held several roles; in fact, I’m almost certain he was the young sommelier who guided us through the wine list years ago. The steakhouse salad, with its apples and oranges and Roquefort cheese, was enhanced significantly by the Riesling recommended by Josh, my server. Trimbach, from Alsace, I believe. 20 L O C A L | october 15

LOCAL Houston | The City Guide OCTOBER 2015 | Page 20