LOCAL Houston | The City Guide NOVEMBER 2015 | Page 29

Photography provided by Hunky Dory

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE

HUNKY DORY
Cuisine: Modernized British Pub Fare
Executive Chef: Richard Knight
1819 N. Shepherd | 713.864.2408 | www.treadsack.com/hunkydory
Dinner Daily 5–11pm; Sat/Sun Brunch: 11am–3pm; lunch service to begin soon

Noted chef Richard Knight has reemerged at the long-awaited Hunky
Dory, named after the David Bowie record often played at Knight’s former resto, Feast, where he had a loyal following with his “nose to tail”
philosophy of cooking. In his new digs, Knight is excited about an
expanded repertoire and vision with a kitchen built around the massive
wood-burning grill, where he puts out gorgeous plates from his seasonal
take on British cuisine.
Knight’s dishes come to life in vivid style, thanks to architect/designer
Michael Shu for a space which has been painstakingly built surrounding
a century-old oak tree. Inspiration for the structure and design was the
idea of “a thousand-year-old castle, decorated by Andy Warhol and
David Bowie,” according to owner Chris Cusak. With pops of unexpected color and plaid prints within the farmhouse feel, the effect is chic,
warm and inviting – adjectives that also describe Knight’s cuisine. Take
his Gulf fish of the day, beautifully grilled and served atop a colorful
grilled bean salad and tomato broth, or the hearty slow-braised pork
belly, served with a luscious white bean stew. The “tartar” version of fish
and chips features super-fresh Gulf fish with capers and cornichons in a
light dill and shallot dressing with “chips” served alongside a malt vinegar aioli.
The bar program will compliment Knight’s menus with classic cocktails,
global whiskeys, European beers and an extensive wine list focused on
Old World varietals. From the patio or looking onto it, glasses will be
raised in praise of this new Heights stand-out.
–Jodie Eisenhardt | @foodiehouston

november 15 |

L O C A L

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