OPEN |
By Brian Tagtmeier
BACKSTREET CAFE
CUISINE: American Bistro
1103 Shepherd Dr. | 713.521.2239 | www.backstreetcafe.net
Mon–Thur: 11am–10pm; Fri–11am–11pm; Sat–10am–11pm; Sun–10am–9pm
As a food critic, it’s easy to praise Hugo Ortega. Since the mid-90s, he’s
been a major part of Houston’s restaurant scene. At Backstreet Café, where
he made the American dream come true by working hard, the path from
dishwasher in the early 80s to executive chef in1995 is truly remarkable.
Ortega’s food is as good as ever. He is constantly trying new recipes and
refining the old ones. My favorite among the classics: Gulf Coast beignets,
duck spring rolls, shrimp cheese grits. You can’t go wrong there.
Backstreet hasn’t featured a seasonal menu in years. We should be grateful
they are now. The Spring menu highlights two ingredients -- artichokes and
crawfish. Ortega does well highlighting and combining both ingredients in
exciting ways.
I started with the Corn Cakes. Lightly fried corn cakes were topped with
crawfish, avocado, tomatillo salsa and crema. The zesty and smoky salsa still
let the sautéed crawfish be the focus. My waiter hinted that it might make the
main menu, and I hope it does.
For a main course, I had the crawfish and artichoke risotto, a fusion dish that
I wish were available year round. The tender artichoke hearts complemented
the spicy crawfish. The risotto was that perfect al dente that makes any chef
proud. The crispy prosciutto on top provided the saltiness to bring out the
bright flavors.
For dessert, I had a nice pinot gris. Why? Well, I failed to mention I had a
prime patio seat. One of the charms of Backstreet this time of year is the back
patio. With just enough tree cover, it is a perfect option when the springtime
weather beckons. If you've never dined on the patio, you need to rectify that
immediately.
Butterscotch Bread Pudding
Overall, Backstreet Café provides a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting. Cel-
ebrate the American dream with Hugo. I promise it is inspiring and filling.
RED LION PUB
CUISINE: British Pub
2316 Shepherd Dr. | 713.782.3030 |www.redlionhouston.com
Mon–Fri 11:30am–2am; Sat–Sun 11am–2am
In a city with a diverse restaurant scene, sometimes what we really crave is traditional comfort food that is as filling as it is delicious.
Red Lion owner Craig Mallinson does just that for those who crave British pub fare. Generous portions of the classics served with
a mound of English peas are where I tend to lie. I chose the Shepherd’s Pie this time. Ground lamb covered with broiled mashed
potatoes and brown gravy is my favorite. My only pro