LOCAL Houston | The City Guide MARCH 2016 | Page 24
PERFECT PAIRS
Sometimes the perfect pair isn’t just the food
on this page. Who really knows, but it sure
seems like fate brought two humble but eccentric dudes back together, and back to food,
after not having talked in about 10 years. But
now, having permits and the balls to do it,
Tony and Mike (and their ladies who keep
them grounded) are ready to change your day
with food and drinks from EL TOPO. “Take time
and put it in a taco” – if that does not sum up
the labor of love, strong belief in fresh/seasonal ingredients and devotion to tradition
that El Topo is ready to share with Houston,
we’re not sure what quote would. By dissecting traditional Mexican recipes and masterfully
(we really mean this) recreating them with a
slight modern flare, these guys and their truck
are going to makes some waves in the
Houston food scene. We had the honor of
enjoying a feast with them, as well as touring
the truck, and El Topo is a legit, “all hands on
deck” operation. No Sysco up in here; all
ingredients are sourced locally. Tortillas,
sauces, yogurts and drinks like ginger beer or
kombucha? Hecho a mano, each and every
one.
Until this taco, we were not much of a mole
fan, it always seemed (even at the “high end”
places) to be too sweet and almost chocolate
syrup-y. Not this taco mole! THE CHICKEN is confit’ed (cooked slow and low in fat), but not at
all fatty, it’s moist and tender. And that mole...
mother of god!! Seasonal chilies, cacao, fig
and a host of other blends, reconstitutions,
grinds and toasts come together to make mole
that’s sure to make you say o ley! Pile it on the
just pressed chicken stock/honey/sprouted
quinoa tortilla with a little garnish on top...and
there is no way in heck fire one will be
enough. Pair that with the CHILI & PINA ’BUCHA
(jalapeno/pineapple in this batch) … it’s
almost not even fair. Bright and punchy, the
kombucha has just the right amount of sparkle,
perfect heat and that pineapple aftertaste that’s
just right. Put ’em together and what have you
got? Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Boo!! That absolutely was
a fairy godmother in Cinderella reference,
because, this pairing is magical! Watch out,
Houston.
By Mike Cook
Photography by Kennon Evett
TACO MOLE + CHILI & PIñA ‘BUCHA
EL TOPO | FOOD TRUCK | www.topotruck.com | www.facebook.com/topotruck | www.twitter.com/topotruck | www.instagram.com/topotruck
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L O C A L
| march 16