LOCAL Houston | The City Guide MARCH 2016 | Page 24

PERFECT PAIRS Sometimes the perfect pair isn’t just the food on this page. Who really knows, but it sure seems like fate brought two humble but eccentric dudes back together, and back to food, after not having talked in about 10 years. But now, having permits and the balls to do it, Tony and Mike (and their ladies who keep them grounded) are ready to change your day with food and drinks from EL TOPO. “Take time and put it in a taco” – if that does not sum up the labor of love, strong belief in fresh/seasonal ingredients and devotion to tradition that El Topo is ready to share with Houston, we’re not sure what quote would. By dissecting traditional Mexican recipes and masterfully (we really mean this) recreating them with a slight modern flare, these guys and their truck are going to makes some waves in the Houston food scene. We had the honor of enjoying a feast with them, as well as touring the truck, and El Topo is a legit, “all hands on deck” operation. No Sysco up in here; all ingredients are sourced locally. Tortillas, sauces, yogurts and drinks like ginger beer or kombucha? Hecho a mano, each and every one. Until this taco, we were not much of a mole fan, it always seemed (even at the “high end” places) to be too sweet and almost chocolate syrup-y. Not this taco mole! THE CHICKEN is confit’ed (cooked slow and low in fat), but not at all fatty, it’s moist and tender. And that mole... mother of god!! Seasonal chilies, cacao, fig and a host of other blends, reconstitutions, grinds and toasts come together to make mole that’s sure to make you say o ley! Pile it on the just pressed chicken stock/honey/sprouted quinoa tortilla with a little garnish on top...and there is no way in heck fire one will be enough. Pair that with the CHILI & PINA ’BUCHA (jalapeno/pineapple in this batch) … it’s almost not even fair. Bright and punchy, the kombucha has just the right amount of sparkle, perfect heat and that pineapple aftertaste that’s just right. Put ’em together and what have you got? Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Boo!! That absolutely was a fairy godmother in Cinderella reference, because, this pairing is magical! Watch out, Houston. By Mike Cook Photography by Kennon Evett TACO MOLE + CHILI & PIñA ‘BUCHA EL TOPO | FOOD TRUCK | www.topotruck.com | www.facebook.com/topotruck | www.twitter.com/topotruck | www.instagram.com/topotruck 24 L O C A L | march 16