LOCAL Houston | The City Guide MARCH 2016 | Page 23

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE REVOLVER BOURBON & SOCIAL CLUB CUISINE: Elevated Bar Food EXECUTIVE CHEF: Matt Brice 6502 Washington Ave. | 713.862.4555 | www.revolverhouston.com Mon–Fri: 4pm–2am; Sat–Sun: 12pm–2am Photography by Craig H. Hartley Czar Burger When is a bar also a great restaurant? Not very often, but in this case, having Federal Grill chef/owner Matt Brice serve as executive chef (and partner, along with James Cole and Mark Gray) makes the case for some very delicious cuisine indeed, in this new space on Washington, just south of I-10, behind the IHOP. The inside bar space is chic, industrial and elegant all at once, thanks to everything from oilfield parts to chandeliers. Garage-style doors open to an expansive 4,700 square-foot patio, featuring fire pits along with plenty of booths and seating. It feels more grown-up lounge than bar. There’s a big bourbon/whiskey list, of course, but also a nice and beautifully displayed wine selection along with excellent craft cocktails, like the refreshing “Sucker Punch” made with Hendricks Gin, St. Germain, muddled raspberries, cucumber, lime juice and ginger beer. Some of the food is over the top, but so good, it is worthy of indulgence. Consider the chicken-fried bacon, with bacon-pepper gravy for dipping or the hand-cut, perfectly crisp bacon-blue cheese truffle fries. The same basic (perfect) fries are served with the variety of sliders. We loved the crispy chicken version with the siracha aioli. There are wings by the pound (traditional or boneless), served with a variety of crafty sauces and there are stellar tacos and burgers. Lighter options include salads and flatbread pizzas from the large menu. Nightly dinner specials include chicken-fried steak on Wednesdays, which Brice says is the best in town. I can’t wait to confirm! Interior and basil are right on the money. All units will enjoy menu changes with this new focus. Not to worry, there’s still a great burger (a bargain at $9) plus a large menu including the beloved creole seafood and Andouille gumbo, East and Gulf Coast oysters on the half-shell and eve