LOCAL Houston | The City Guide June 2017 | Page 31

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE + LEISURE
GROTTO | DT
CUISINE : Italian 1001 Avenida De Las Americas A | 713 . 658.0752 | www . grottorestaurants . com Mon-Thurs : 11am – 10pm , Fri : 11am – 11pm , Sat : 4-11pm , Sun : 11am- – 10pm
While the Super Bowl madness lasted only a few days in February , the lasting effect was the flurry of restaurants opening downtown . One of the true gems is Grotto Downtown , located near the GRB and Minute Maid Park . And as Chef Sean Hochstein explained , it ’ s not your father ’ s Grotto . Given more leeway to offer a variety of small plates , antipasti and pizzas , his menu offers diners a chance to share incredible food at very reasonable prices .
What are called “ Small Plates ” are enough to share with several people . Based on Chef Hochstein ’ s recommendations , we started with the Gamberi ( colossal head-on shrimp in a scampi gravy with soaking bread ). A mouthwatering version of New Orleans-style BBQ shrimp with perfect combination of Worcester and piquant flavors . My only regret : that I couldn ’ t take home a gallon of the sauce . Next came the mussels in a pinot grigio broth with lemon and garlic . Divine , especially with more bread to dip .
Continuing the theme of sharing , we ordered the Meatzza , a lovely pie topped with pepperoni , meatballs , pancetta , and Italian sausage . Crispy and airy crust with a very good cheese to sauce ratio . And the meatballs were the perfect size , not too large to fold the slice or so small they would be ground beef .
To finish , we had the bombolino , brioche donuts with dipping sauces ( chocolate , lemon curd , strawberry ). If I had only had the lemon curd , I ’ d have been in heaven . Light and warm , the donuts were a perfect end .
I applaud Chef Hochstein for the new direction . And don ’ t worry , you can still get Grotto ’ s signature veal chop , pasta vongole and pesce al forno .
Photo Courtesy of Landry ’ s , Inc
Grotto
Food shared is always better . Grotto takes it to another level . Even better , you can get it before walking to an Astros game . I know I will . hummus ( I might have added a little more garlic sauce ) were delicious . Not wanting to only have Mediterranean , I tried a newcomer to the Village menu : shrimp étouffée served over brown rice . The rich sauce had a piquant flavor , and dipping pita instead of French bread was a nice change .
Photo by Becca Wright
Beyond the food , the space itself makes it family-friendly . With a large covered patio , dedicated parking for the restaurant ( a premium in the Village ) and an open kitchen concept , Haddad should do very well . There ’ s no doubt he ’ s worked hard to keep the quality .
Overall , Inner Loopers should rejoice . Eat healthy , but don ’ t sacrifice taste . You don ’ t have to at Island Grill .
Banana Nut Pancakes
june 17 | LOCAL 31