“ We get grief about the crust . It ’ s not New York , Chicago or Detroit style . This is true Napoletano style .”
Ricotta
“ A lot of times , vegetables are an afterthought – like ‘ ok , we gotta do something vegetarian – let ’ s roast a portobello ,’” chuckles Jones . “ We did not want to get too crazy but we wanted to have some well-thought-out , tasty vegetables on the menu . Remember that grated carrot mess that everyone ’ s Aunt Mabel made ? We did a contemporary riff on it .”
And it is this simple , innovative , fresh salad that actually defines Jones ’ effect on the Cane Rosso menu . Wide , shaved planks of carrots , with pickled sultanas , hints of orange , cumin and cinnamon – a southern favorite reconstructed with hints of North Africa . A celebration of the vegetables for which Italian cooking is famous proves Jones is not just a pretty face , but a thinking , informed and talented chef .
Also worthy of accolades : the roasted cauliflower with its creamy , dreamy bagna cauda snapped to tasty attention with an anchovy vinaigrette and capers . Stunningly delicious .
Wommack adds , “ The salads are moderately sized so customers don ’ t feel ‘ gut bombed .’ They can share a salad and a pizza and still feel good at the end of the meal .”
Good thing , because the choice is a tough one . In addition to stellar salads and great pizza , Cane Rosso also does some mighty fine pasta dishes such as The Coal Miner , a most peppery rip on the traditional pasta carbonara , and a dish named after the pasta ’ s cockscomb shape , Cresta di Gallo , a luscious bowl of roasted chicken , arugula , a trio of mushrooms , a splash of broth , zest of lemon and a shaving of grana padano .
And if good , tasty food is not enough to make you happy , the enormous patio is dog-friendly . Jerrier runs a dog rescue charity ( Cane Rosso Rescue ). Translated from Italian , Cane Rosso means red dog .
Go .
CANE ROSSO
THE HEIGHTS : 1835 N . Shepherd Dr . | Houston , TX 77008 | 713.868.0071 MONTROSE : 4306 Yoakum Blvd . | Houston , TX 77006 | 713.337.1155 www . canerosso . com
22 LOCAL | july 17