LOCAL Houston | The City Guide July 2017 - Page 22

“We get grief about the crust. It’s not New York, Chicago or Detroit style. This is true Napoletano style.” Ricotta “A lot of times, vegetables are an afterthought – like ‘ok, we gotta do something vegetarian – let’s roast a portobello,’” chuckles Jones. “We did not want to get too crazy but we wanted to have some well-thought-out, tasty vegetables on the menu. Remember that grated carrot mess that everyone’s Aunt Mabel made? We did a contemporary riff on it.” And it is this simple, innovative, fresh salad that actually defines Jones’ effect on the Cane Rosso menu. Wide, shaved planks of carrots, with pickled sultanas, hints of orange, cumin and cinnamon – a southern favorite reconstructed with hints of North Africa. A celebration of the vegetables for which Italian cooking is famous proves Jones is not just a pretty face, but a thinking, informed and talented chef. Also worthy of accolades: the roasted cauliflower with its creamy, dreamy bagna cauda snapped to tasty attention with an anchovy vinaigrette and capers. Stunningly delicious. Wommack adds, “The salads are moderately sized so customers don’t feel ‘gut bombed.’ They can share a salad and a pizza and still feel good at the end of the meal.” Good thing, because the choice is a tough one. In addition to stellar salads and great pizza, Cane Rosso also does some mighty fine pasta dishes such as The Coal Miner, a most peppery rip on the traditional pasta carbonara, and a dish named after the pasta’s cockscomb shape, Cresta di Gallo, a luscious bowl of roasted chicken, arugula, a trio of mushrooms, a splash of broth, zest of lemon and a shaving of grana padano. And if good, tasty food is not enough to make you happy, the enormous patio is dog-friendly. Jerrier runs a dog rescue charity (Cane Rosso Rescue). Translated from Italian, Cane Rosso means red dog. Go. CANE ROSSO THE HEIGHTS: 1835 N. Shepherd Dr. | Houston, TX 77008 | 713.868.0071 MONTROSE: 4306 Yoakum Blvd. | Houston, TX 77006 | 713.337.1155 www.canerosso.com 22 L O C AL | july 17 july 17 | L O C A L 23