LOCAL Houston | The City Guide December 2016 - Page 26

OPEN By Brian Tagtmeier SNOOZE Photo by Rebekah Flores CUISINE: Breakfast & Brunch EXECUTIVE CHEF: Justin Martin 3217 Montrose Blvd., Suite 100 | 713.574.6655 Daily: 6:30am–2:30pm Breakfast isn’t the most important meal of the day – brunch is. The only meal where a champagne/cocktail is expected. Snooze AM, a Colorado-based chain, is a welcome addition to the Montrose scene. Known for transforming traditional breakfast dishes into more creative versions, how Snooze attacks Eggs Benedict is a perfect example. The Chilaquiles (shredded barbacoa over tortillas with a poblano hollandaise), the Benny Goodman (lox and cream cheese with a cream cheese hollandaise) and the Chile Verde (pulled pork over green chile sauced tortillas and green chile hollandaise) are good takeoffs from the norm. For those who can’t choose, you can have two different bennys on the same plate. My kids love the pancakes: chocolate chip for the boy; the blueberry Danish (buttermilk pancakes with a lemony cream cheese center, blueberry coulis and a streusel topping) for the girl. I haven’t moved fast enough to try the chocolate chip. However, the blueberry Danish is incredible. The coulis and lemon filling make syrup unnecessary. Photos courtesy of Pi Pizza Grilled Ham and cheese & Drunk'n Monkey As mentioned, brunch without alcohol is a sad, late breakfast. With five types of mimosas, Snooze pours plenty of bubbles on the weekends. A full bar is available for those who want something stronger. I highly recommend the Bloody Marys. My favorite, The Bangkok, uses sriracha, lime, basil and fish sauce to add a Thai flair. The sriracha significantly ups the heat over a spicy Bloody Mary, but does not overwhelm the more delicate basil and lime in the background. With all Snooze offers, brunch is no longer relegated to weekends. And for that, my friends, we should be eternally grateful. PI PIZZA CUISINE: AMERICAN/PIZZERIA 181 HEIGHTS BLVD. | 832.767.2433 | www.pipizzahtx.com Sun–Thurs: 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat: 11am–10pm Pi Pizza in the Heights is the latest food truck to move into permanent digs. Often, the transition from truck to brick and mortar can prove challenging. Anthony Calleo, the Pizza Ninja, more than makes it work; he excels. With the help of Lee Ellis (State Fare, Lee’s Creamery, Petite Sweets and Lee’s Fried Chicken and Donuts), Calleo is turning out his fantastic pizzas in greater quantities than ever. Many of the truck’s favorites are rotated with new creations. Lee’s Pizza, which features Ellis’s handmade cheese, pepperoni, jalapeno and sausage, can’t be beat. The Southern Heritage uses bacon braised collard greens for a different kind of comfort food. And a whole lot more than just pies. Fried appetizers give more options outside of the circle: pizza fries and fried mac-n-cheese balls. The star is the fried Brussels sprouts topped with Dairymaids’ blue cheese – nothing like the boiled mush Grandma served. The Grecian 26 L O C A L | december 16