ART
THE ART OF THE DONUT
ALYSSA DOLE IS MIXING IT UP
Four months into her new position as pastry chef for Lee ’ s Fried Chicken and Donuts , ALYSSA DOLE ’ S creativity can ’ t be contained . Every Saturday , she hits a local farmers market to see what fruit is fresh and in season , and then finds a way to incorporate it into a special “ Sunday-only ” donut for the shop ( recent find : peaches ). When they run out , they run out . But she keeps on going .
She has to . On any given weekend day , they move 750 donuts . Some of the menu items have been around from the beginning , some rotate seasonally , and Dole works on new ones constantly . Her most recent success was a peanut butter-green apple beauty .
It all starts with understanding the dough , she says . “ It ’ s alive ! You ’ re working with a living being ,” she says of the yeasty mix . “ So you have to know your dough and not be scared . I fully believe that the living dough can sense your fear .”
Other factors that can affect the outcome : room temperature , humidity , an extra tablespoon of water , broken air conditioning . “ Sometimes it ’ s trial and error , but you learn how to adapt to weather conditions ,” she laughs .
Born in Denver but raised in Houston , the Duchesne graduate went to cooking school , then worked for a year in a patisserie in Australia . Upon her return to Houston , she became the pastry chef for the Agricole Hospitality Group , which includes Coltivare and Revival Market .
SO WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO MAKE A GOOD-LOOKING DONUT ? “ Sprinkles ,” she laughs ( she laughs a lot ). “ Just kidding . It ’ s getting the sweetness and texture and consistency right . You can have the most beautiful donut in the world , but if it doesn ’ t hold up , you ’ ve got to start all over .”
From scratch , you might say .
By Tim Moloney | Photography by Jenn Duncan
34 LOCAL | august 17