LOCAL Houston | The City Guide April 2017 - Page 21

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE Margarita Ceviche “I don’t do short cuts. Short cuts cost you flavor” is Casares’ mantra. She believes in fresh and high-quality ingredients. And she believes in enchiladas. “I am all about enchiladas! I am the Enchilada Ambassador,” she chuckles. “What is it about tacos? Tacos! All I hear is tacos. I want enchiladas to be the next tacos.” While Sylvia ponders the solution, a dinner guest pipes up, “An enchilada taco?” Margarita-fueled laughter erupts as Sylvia shakes her head no. “I don’t do short cuts. Short cuts cost you flavor.” The 18 flavored enchilada menu is divided between the north and south side of the Rio Grande, all named for a town either in Texas or Mexico. Flights of either can be ordered. One in particular haunts my food dreams, the Sarita, from the north menu. The crunch of fresh corn, the hint of lime wrapped in the wonder of a fresh tortilla, sauced with a light, delicate cream sauce and just a whisper of cheese. Another fave: Refugio, a cheese enchilada with a beefy chili gravy. Anxious to please, Sylvia is the consummate hostess and her menu reflects her desire to appease the wishes of dining guests. There are 3 variations of guacamole, including the Frontera where guests may mix their own, and endless offerings of margaritas, including a respectable agave sweetened, fresh lime juice skinny ’rita. If enchiladas are not your bag, try for a mixed grill that has something to please every member of your party – grilled shrimp, sea bass filet with tomatillo mole, chicken breast, quail and beef fajitas. MY TIP: Go directly to the tender, tasty beef fajitas. “It took me two years to figure out how to rock fajitas,” touts Casares. Two years well spent. april 17 | L O C A L 21