LOCAL Houston | The City Guide APRIL 2016 | Page 23

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE

THE DUNLAVY
CUISINE: California-inspired Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Joe Gentempo
3422 Allen Parkway | 713.360.6477 | www.TheDunlavy.com
7am–2pm daily
With its stunning views of Buffalo Bayou, you’ll be transported somewhere
outside of, yet right in, the heart of the city at this new sensation of a space
that seems both casual and utterly elegant.

Such was the mission of Clark Cooper Concepts, who sought to have business suits next to yoga pants for counter-service and seating at community
tables, with sparkling antique chandeliers overhead and additional patio
seating with high-tech climate control shades. The vibe is perfect.
The cuisine was created by Brandi Key, Culinary Director for the group,
along with Executive Chef Joe Gentempo of San Francisco. It’s no accident
the cuisine has a decidedly California-feel with items like the Avocado Toast
– grilled sourdough bread with sliced avocado, whipped ricotta and lemon
zest – and the Savory Breakfast Bowl with
wild rice, wilted kale, quinoa, white
beans and sweet potato with a soft
boiled egg, alongside smoothies and
juices. More decadent options include
buttermilk drop biscuits in several varieties, including the sublime rosemary
honey biscuit, served with honey butter.

Photography courtesy of TheDunlavy

Brunch and lunch bring salads and sandwiches into the mix including the fantastic
Turkey, Apple & Brie and a solid Cubano.
Stellar salad offerings include the yummy
Chinese Chicken Salad with its gingery
dressing, rotisserie chicken and peanut
sauce. The Green Goddess Hummus
“snack” served with fresh veggies is
divine. Do not miss the ridiculously good
cookie offerings (omg – the Meyer lemon
iced cookie!) by former Tiny Boxwood’s
pastry chef Samantha Thompson. And
just look around and be happy.
Interior

fantastic sandwiches including Lee’s own with hot sauce mayo, bread and
butter pickles and cheddar atop the fried breast – go ahead and add the
slaw. The fried chicken salad sandwich has a Creole honey-mustard dressing,
and the “double donut” fried chicken sandwich features tenders between
donuts with your choice of sauce, and there’s a new fried chicken tender
“dog” (on a hot dog roll) with your choice of sauce. The six housemade
sauces are a serious part of the menu, each with its own charm including a
bacon, onion and jalapeno marmalade, a hot sauce syrup and bacon
jalapeno cream gravy. Stand-out sides include yummy creamed corn and
southern potato salad. Recently, they’ve added an eight-piece box of
“Icebox” Fried Chicken for just $10 – a delicious bargain.
There are solid kolaches – especially the spicy boudin, and the donuts are
no afterthought. You’ll likely never experience a better apple fritter; the variety
of cake donuts – wow! – and the raised Mexican chocolate donut will haunt
you in your dreams.

april 16 |

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