LiQUiFY Magazine February 2015 | Page 110

The Bodhisattva once said ‘It’s that place where you lose yourself and you find yourself.’ - although we think Patrick Swayze’s scriptwriter knew more about it than the actor himself at the time. We don’t know what it truly is, but there’s definitely certain moments in surfing when time stands still, both inside and outside of the barrel // Photo Luis Mori @luismoriphoto