with the push of surfing, but it’s a doubleedged sword for me, the more people that
surf equals the more work but ... as well
that’s why it’s so important to have places
like South Stradbroke Island because as an
aging surfer here on the Gold Coast, it’s really
not the best place for an aging surfer. I mean
like in Western Australia, all of those aging
surfers have just got it made (in terms of
crowds), a bit more than what we have with
our (over)crowded points, so we really need
the places like South Straddie and the beach
breaks up that way, the Seaways and The
Spits and all that.
“Obviously, all things change, but I love
surfing and shaping, it’s fucken everything to
me, and I always remind myself of how lucky I
am, that I have someone like Bede (Du &&