it well - there’s a lot of respect in the water
whether you’re bodysurfing, shortboarding,
bodyboarding, whatever it is, if you’re good
at it and you have a smile on your face you
tend to get waves. No one is pigeonholing
anyone there, the ocean is the ocean and
what you want to do, it’s up to you.”
So who is really the best surfer in the
water on the day?
“It’s cliche, but I think the one having the most
fun, and the one getting the deepest barrels I
think (laughs).”
Yeah, where we grew up if you didn’t get
deep you sucked, it was ‘pull in or lose’,
and by lose we meant get told to leave.
“Yeah that’s it, it’s a pecking order, well it
should be a pecking order out there, maybe
the Gold Coast will figure that out again one
day. You just got to get out there and have
fun mate, that’s the main thing.” //
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