I kept my momentum up and continued to
dive deep avoiding as much turbulence as
possible. I eventually took advantage of the
lull behind the set to paddle hard past the
crunch zone and safely out the back. The
water was a murky brown but it was just so
refreshing being in it amongst the salt. With a
couple of steep drops under my belt I started
to settle into the swing of things just in time for
the wind to turn onshore. “Fuck it!” I thought,
knowing too well that I should’ve listened to
my gut instinct. Guru is a great guy and lovely
person but I had already grown weary of his
surf calls. For sure tomorrow I would be onto
it at first light.
Next morning after a quick dawn check
of the surf, it’s obvious the swell is still up.
Guru and Mad Man were lounging around on
Ma’s outside tables and chairs sipping Chai.
I always thought if you put a cup of Chai to
your lips you’ve had a man there too, but the
boys pointed out that’s a decaf soy latte. They
were in the process of hiring bikes so they
Matt Ellks rips off the bottom at ‘Indicators’ // Photo Eggy