waxed up, amped and ready to go. Guru
and Mad Man had been taking their time
with whatever they were doing. There was a
further delay and instead of getting impatient
at their procrastination, I summonsed my
acceptance.
All I want to do now is surf. Another half an
hour passes and we finally reach the beach.
Nothing much seems to have changed except
this time I have a finely tuned board under
my arm. The waves still pound the shore,
LiQUiFY | 124
clanking the rounded pebbles like golf balls
in a washing machine. Guru yells at me like a
lifeguard off ‘Bondi Rescue’, “Wait, don’t go
mate, you’re gonna get smashed!”
I pay no attention, I’ve had enough of dillydallying and hit the water, adrenaline fully
pumping. The shorie is heaving and I definitely
didn’t want to get caught inside. I duck dived
deep beneath the oncoming whitewater,
stroking hard each time I surfaced in the
foam. Like my ‘Disney’ penguin hero ‘Big Z’