living the dream and
slipping into a late winter afternoon keg on the other side.
Laps of the sun: 29
Place to sleep: Nobby Beach
Daily grind: World traveller / Chippy / Lifeguard
“It’s almost the only place you can get left barrels around
here. The crowds can get a bit much but if you can score a
late arvo midweek session with no taxi running you can get
a peak all to yourself. When it’s really on, you find yourself
saying ‘just one more’ way too many times - then its a dark
lonely paddle home. I love the extra power over there, it
has to be up there with the best beachies in the world. That
day I paddled over alone at around 2pm and surfed till just
before dark. I wasn’t working that day because I had just
got back from 4 weeks in Indo two days earlier so it was
nice to be back on sand. That wave ... just a perfect short
punchy one, not a drop of water out of place.”
FROTH | Page 32