Lash-Ed Issue 4 October 2019 - Page 9

1. Single / Mono eyelid

The single mono eyelid is heavy

looking as the eyelid is hooded

The lash line is completely hidden

by the eyelid so it tends to make

the eyes look small

The natural lashes tend to grow

downwards because the hood

resting on it

The ideal curls to use would be

CC, D, L, LC, LD so that they show

from under the hood.

Use slightly longer extensions as the base of the extension will appear to sink in where it’s hidden under the hood. Your 12mm will look like a 10mm. As you need length, think about thickness and the number of lashes in a volume fan so you don’t overload.

Tell your client to keep their eye area clean as the hood of the eyelid is resting on the extensions where the bonds are.

In this example, you can see an untreated lash line. The lashes are hidden under the hood. In the picture of the treated eye, I used 2 curls and kept the overall appearance looking light to avoid heaviness. My lash map shows how I used a C and D curl. You'll see that the longer 12 and 13mm lengths do not look like they are because some length is hidden under the hood.

2. Double (crease) eyelid

This eyelid is more European

looking so it doesn’t look heavy

and the lashes are visible. These

are the most common Asian eyes.

The creased eyelid tends to

make the eye appear bigger

than the mono/hooded eyelid.

If you can see the lash line, the

ideal curls may be a B, C, CC, D

and style as usual.

These are a Classic set of lashes

in a B curl that are 0.10mm thick.

Most of the clients in my salon are Asian and we use C curls mainly.

I treated these 3 ladies with C curls and varied where I placed the longest lengths to suit each of them.

I don't use L curls. Personally, I think the L curls are too

harsh. I’ve had my lashes treated with them one time and

I looked permanently surprised like I had walked into a

wall. I have the double eyelid so there was too much lift

for me so I usually wear a B or C curl.

This next image and map what we call the Camel style,

like the animal! I started with a C curl at the inner corner

and then dropped to a less curly B curl for the final

quarter of the eye near the outer corner.

If the outer corner is raised then this is a good way to

soften it as a curly curl will make it look more lifted. This

is what I usually have for my lashes.

3. Semi double eyelid

The semi double eyelid is like a combination of the other

two. It’s half single and half double. With open eyes, a

very narrow double (crease) eyelid can be seen along

the lash line with the rest being a mono/single eyelid as

highlighted here at the outer corners.

The eyes can appear less heavy looking than single/

mono eyelid and you will need to assess where the lash

is and isn't visible. Where it’s visible, style as usual with

a B, C, CC or D. Where it’s not visible then consider using

either CC, D, LC or LD curls.

You can see how I treated a semi double eyelid below.

The single/mono lid is at the inner corner and the double

crease) eyelid's towards the outer. They also look sad.

You can see how I have changed the shape of the eye to

disguise the sad look. I did this by using C curls and didn't

over extend. I put

the longer lashes at

the inner corner

and used shorter

ones where the lash

line can be seen.

It’s like the Cat eye

map in reverse as

you need longer

lashes where the

lash line is hidden.

Manami Edwards

manamilash.com Styling Special Feature | 9